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•266 CHANNEL i s l a n d s :
without success; and it often happens, that one is
detained in tlie island for weeks, owing to the difficulty
and danger of navigating its shores, unless in certain
favourable states of wind and tide. The race, is on
the south side, between Alderney and the French
coast; the swinge on the north side, between Alderney
and another island, called Berhou; and through both
of these, the tide runs from six to seven knots an hour.
The swinge too, which must be passed by all vessels
from England, or the other islands, is narrow and full
of rocks ; and the coast of Alderney on both sides, is
a congregation of projecting cliffs and isolated rocks.
The tides and currents too, are not only impetuous;
hut require to be thoroughly understood; so that
Alderney can only be approached with safety, under
the guidance of a skilful mariner; and under a
favourable union of wind and tide.
These difficulties have certainly in no small degree,
affected the prosperity of Alderney: strangers are
naturally unwilling to run unnecessary risks; and the
steam vessels, which ply between England, and the
other Channel Islands, grudgingly consent to call at
Alderney: and it has even occasionally happened,
that passengers trusting to the qualified promise of
the master, have been carried to England, or to the
other islands,—the approach to Alderney having been
found to be impracticable.
I made out my voyage to Alderney in the month of
March; not certainly the most favourable month for
excursions in the Channel: but after a succession of
gales from the west, the wind shifted to the east; and
this, affording a tolerable prospect of fine weather, I
resolved to take advantage of it, I hired at Guernsej^,
a roomy open boat, of fourteen feet keel, and manned
by three fishermen, for which I paid 21. JO5. ; and
started with fair wind and tide, soon after breakfast.
The usual conveyance, is by an Alderney cutter, of
about forty tons burden; three of which, trade between
the islands: but I incline to think an open boat, of
good dimensions, manned by sailors familiar with the
navigation, not much less secure; and it has besides,
the advantage of oars, in case of wind and tide failing.
During the first half of our voyage, the light breeze
with which we started, continued; but it then began
to fall short; and at length we had to take to onr oars,
with a dead calm: and with only two oars, and a
heavy boat, no very rapid progress could be made.
Although, however, the prospect of an early arrival,
and daylight through the swinge, was none of the
brightest,—the prospect around was beautiful. The
whole expanse of the sea, was one field of crystal,
slightly undulating, and perfectly smooth, unless where
here and there, a little wandering air just rumpled the
surface into almost imperceptible wavy lines, and
then dying away, again left it like a mirror. Sometimes
these little airs travelled across our path, fluttering
in our sails, which we kept up, to catch every
help; and then for a few moments, the gurgling
sound would tell that we were making a little way;
and the sailors would rest on their oars,—and whistle
to the winds, which, as our poet says, “ came not.”
Alderney yet a far way off, presenting a bold square
front, lay before us ; yet farther behind, and scarcely
perceptible, Guernsey; and Sark: to the right in a
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