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because Guernsey is less interesting; nor, because
(with the exception of trade) there is less to tell; but
because there is, in many respects,—in the aspect of
the two islands, in tl^e manners of the country people,
in their agriculture, in their climate and productions, .
in their civil government,—so great a similarity, that
after having exhausted all these subjects as regards
one of the islands, it would be impossible without
repetition, to dwell at the same length, on the other
island. With these preliminary observations, I pro-
ceed.
In approaching Guernsey, the shores of the island
do not possess the same attractions as the sister island;
being altogether, more sterile, and offering less variety.
St. Peter’s Port, viewed from the sea, is
greatly more imposing, than the chief town of Jersey.
The latter, as the reader has already been told, lies
on a plain : the former, covers the side of a hill,—encircles
its base, and crowns its ridge ; so that it shews
itself to the best advantage. Little or nothing of it is
lost to the eye; and both in extent, and seeming elegance,
the stranger, in approaching Guernsey, would
give to St Peter’s Port, a decided preference over
St. Helier.
Like many more important places than St. Peter’s
Port, these appearances are deceptive; and all the
apparent attractions of the town disappear, when one
steps on shore. I should say, that the first impressions
of St. Peter’s Port, are decidedly unfavourable.
W e perambulate narrow, steep, and crooked streets,
flanked by substantial indeed, but old-looking dusky
houses : and walk as long as we may, we reach no
open space, where we may stop and look about us. I
speak at present of the town only, not of the environs,
which offer a most agreeable contrast to the tow’ii.
The advantage which St. Helier possesses over St.
Peter’s Port is this,—that, in the former, the houses
of the gentry are thrown into rows and streets, and
form a part of the town; whereas, the better houses
in Guernsey, are not within the town; but are detached
residences: and herein consist the great beauty
of the environs of St. Peter’s Port, which ju st as far
exceed the expectations of the traveller, as the town
falls below them.
Walk from St. Peter’s Port, in what direction you
may, — indications of wealth and refinement united,
are everywhere apparent. I do not mean to pass
any encomium on the architectural beauty of the
Guernsey villas; which are, with few exceptions, constructed
without much regard to architectural taste;
but they are uniformly respectable in appearance:
there is nothing pert, and cit-like, about them: they
are generally something beyond boxes; and are evidently
the dwellings of persons who possess, at least,
a competency.
Nor is it the houses alone, that arrest one, and lead
to these conclusions. With scarcely an exception,
every detached house has some pleasure ground,—
not merely a round plot, with its circular gravel walk,
its little labyrinth of evergreens, and its border of box
or daises; but a respectable sized inclosure,—a miniature
lawn,—always in excellent order, —big enough
for a promenade,—and, very frequently, with a circular
carriage road. As we get farther from the town.