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their ancient customs, undergoing a rapid change;
particularly the head-gear of the women. I was surprised
and somewhat amused by this remnant of old
things, the first time I chanced to see it. To begin
at the head,—the bonnet, the true ancient Guernsey
bonnet, still seen occasionally amongst the older inhabitants,—
is equally complicated, as it is curious; it
is sui generis ; and like the lily of Guernsey, peculiar
to the isle. I can scarcely be expected to be graphic
in my description of the make and fashioning of a
bonnet ; and conscious of my own déficiences, I obtained
the following, from one more conversant with
these matters. “ The crown of the bonnet (which is
altogether of very large dimensions), is formed of a
long piece of silk, gathered into three rows of plaits,
of an oval shape, from the front to the back of the
head ; and is set off between the folds, with lace, or
crape, according as the wearer is, or is not in mourning.
A very large, and very complex bow of narrow
ribbon is plaited immediately in front. The top of
the crown, is either flat, or is plaited to correspond
with the rest of the bonnet; and on the tip-top,
another bow is perched. The front, of pasteboard, is
covered with silk, and resembles the vizor of a boy’s
cap ; and is continued somewhat beyond the ears.”
Such is the Guernsey bonnet, which is accompanied
by a close mob-cap underneath, with a narrow muslin
border ; plain on the forehead and temples, but plaited
from the ears to the chin. I must sketch the remainder
of the dress. A petticoat of black stuff,
thickly quilted ; the gown,—of an old fashioned chintz
pattern,—open in front, and tucked into the pocket
holes of the petticoat; the bodice open in front to
the waist,—with a coloured handkerchief in lieu of a
habit-shirt; tight sleeves,—terminating just below the
elbow; blue worsted stockings, with black velvet shoes
and buckles. This dress, picturesque bonnet and all,
is repudiated by the rising generation, who have discovered
that the charms of youth are not greatly set
off by the quilted petticoat, and towering bonnet, and
blue worsted stockings.
I cannot greatly compliment the personal appearance
of the Guernsey country people. There are dark
and sparkling eyes among the women: but their
features remind me of persons of colour ; from whom,
by the by, in their complexions, they do not greatly
differ. The men, are, with few exceptions, badly
limbed; and among the women too, the bust is better
than the ancles.
The dialect of Guernsey differs considerably from
that of Jersey. But it is of course difficult, if not impossible,
to explain the difference. The dialect is
even different, in different parishes : for the nearer
these lie to the towns, the less pure is the dialect
spoken. The word “ pure” may be thought by some,
to be inappropriately used; but in fact, the patois of
both islands, as it is spoken in the interior parishes, is
nearly the pure French of some centuries ago; and
while the French has changed, the language of these
Norman islands remains nearly as when Wace, the
Jersey poet, composed his “ Roman du Ron,” in the
year 1160. Indeed, the inhabitants of the Channel
Islands, in those parishes where their families have
constantly intermarried, are purer Normans, than are
im
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