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44 NOETH-WEST EIVEE. CLIMATE.
extent to shelter the largest fleet in the world, possessing veiy extensive
salmon-, cod-, and capelin-fisheries, the shores of whose tributaries are said to
abound in timber of large size which might be floated dorvn in rafts and shipped
in deep water, and whose mineral resources are probably neglected solely
because they have been undeveloped, should have remained up to the present
day so pai'tially explored.
Aug. 29.—Arrived at North-west Eiver, the head of Hamilton’s Inlet, and the
principal settlement of the Hudson’s Bay Company in this part of Labrador.
Towards the upper extremity of the inlet, the shores converge somewhat, and
become gradually flatter and more closely wooded. At this point the channel
receives the waters of “ North-west ” and “ Hamilton’s ” Elvers. The former, or
more northerly branch as its name implies, debouches into the inlet by a narrow
channel only about eighty yards in width—the settlement being on the northern
shore, and situated on a small tract of flat laud from which the forest has been
cleai-ed. The opposite shore is low, and densely wooded to the water’s edge,
but none of the trees are above 30 or 35 feet in height.
Mr. Smith, the superintendent of the district, who has resided here for many
years, speaks in high terms of the healthiness of the climate, notwithstanding the
great alternations of temperature. He has known the thermometer in the
month of July to stand at 110° in the shade, and to range at night up to 90°.
But the last was an exceptional case. During the continuance of these extreme
heats, the mosquitos, with which the inlet swarms to a degree unknown save in
some parts of tropical America, vanished completely. Winter commences in
November. The chief fall of snow occurs in January, the temperature then
ranging from —5° to —50°. In 1856 it fell to —54°. Heavy gales occur in
October. Last year two terrific hurricanes took place, on the 8th and 26th of
October. The first continued for two days, and blew from the north-westward.
The second lasted only for a few hours, but was by far the most severe. I t blew
from the eastward. I f I am not much mistaken, it was on or about the latter
date that the ‘ Eoyal Charter ’ was wrecked on our own shores. Rain falls very
rarely except in August and September; but the faU is then very heavy and continuous.
Mr. Smith states that the men complain more of the severe effects of
the sun in spring, which blisters their faces and affects their eyes, than of the
intense cold. They seldom wear furs, even in the depth of winter—their I
: FURS. NUMBER OE SETTLERS. 45
clothing consisting of stout woollen undergarments with blanket coats and
trousers, and mocassins made of deer-skin. When out in the winter, the hunter
carries no tent, but only a couple of blankets, his gun, and his knife.
The skins brought to the settlement both by the Canadian and Indian hunters
consist of the white and black bear, reindeer, a species of lynx, ermine, mink,
sable, wolverine, and the white and black fox. The black fox-skin is by far the
most valuable and the rarest. Only four were procured last year. Their value
ranges from £10 to £15 on the spot, but in Europe they readily fetch from £30
to £40. I t appears that they are not in such request for the European markets
as for the Chinese. The skins are first purchased by merchants in England.
From thence they are sent to the great annual fair at Leipsic, and ultimately
find their way to China, where they are greatly sought after by the mandarins.
The skin of the carabboo * is brought in from the interior by the Red Indians,
but always in a tanned state.
All skins procured by the hunters are taken at a contract price by the
Hudson’s Bay Company’s agent, the proceeds being divided equally amongst the
men of the party to which the captor belongs. The advantages of this mode of
reward are twofold, inasmuch as it stimulates every man to work energetically,
and induces each party of men to coerce such as are inclined to be idle.
Salmon and salmon-trout are taken in great quantity throughout the entire
length of Hamilton’s Inlet and the rivers that flow into it. Mr. Smith states
that the pike also occurs, and a species of shark about 4 feet in length, quite
distinct from the dog-fish. I was unable to procure specimens, however. Capelins
and cod-fish are only taken near the mouth of the inlet and along the coast.
The total number of settlers on the shores of Hamilton’s Inlet, including those
of mixed descent, is computed at 200. Although no new colonists come out,
the settlers are gradually on the increase. On the other hand, the Esquimaux,
who formerly were plentiful towards the lower portion of the inlet, are slowly
dying out. Some years ago a great number were carried off in a veiy brief
period by some virulent contagious disease. Their skeletons are still strewed
over the surface of an island, not fai* from the one mentioned as occurring near
“ The Narrows,” which retains the name of Esquimaux Island in consequence.
* This is believed to be a large variety of the Reindeer {C. Tarandus) ; but, from the description
Mr. Smith gave of it, it -would almost appear th at a distinct species was referred to.