CHA PT ER II.
LE.AVE EEKLiVIK.—LIMITATION OF TOLCANIC DEPOSIT.—ITS SUPPOSED CAUSE.—
SOUNDINGS.—-ABSENCE OF MINUTE ANIMAL LIFE AT SEA-SUEEACE.—BKOOKE’S
APPAEATUS.—TALUE OF CAREFUL MIOEOSCOPIC ESjIMINATION OP SOUNDINGS.
—UNUSUAL ATMOSPHEKIC APPEAEANCE.—EIEST GLIMPSE OE GEEENLAND,
—PACK-ICE AND BEEGS.—DEPTH OF SEA BETWEEN ICELAND AND GKEEN-
LVND.—GEEAT EXTENT OF ICE-PACK.—HEATSf GALES.—GKEAT GLACIEE,—
TALLEET BANK.—UNABLE TO EEACH FEEDEEIOKSHjLAB.—EAPID DEIFT OF
ICE.—SHIP SUDDENLY HEMMED IN.—EETUEN TO TALLEET BANK.—FALL IN
WITH OUE COLLIEE.—EENEWAL OF ATTEMPT TO MjAKE FEEDEKICKSHAAB.—
PEOOEED TO THE NOETHW.AED.-BilAX’S ETVEE.-AEEIVjVL AT GOODHAAB.
July 15.—Left Eekiavik yesterday forenoon just as the clouds, which had so
invidiously hung over the island during nearly the whole period of our stay,
began to break and give promise of retmming sunshine. But the mists still surrounded
the whole of the mountain-ranges, and Iceland faded from our sight
much after the same provoking fashion that the Faroes did.
Soundings have been taken at intervals of two hours; and as each one is invariably
examined by me the moment it is brought onboard, I had rather too much
science and too little slumber during the night. Having traced the range of the
volcanic deposit to the eastward of the island, it becomes a matter of great
interest to find out how far it extends in the direction of Greenland. This I shall
now have a double opportunity of doing, as the ‘ Bulldog’ is to return to Eekiavik
on her home voyage.
The soundings already taken reveal a very curious fact, namely, that all trace
of the fine volcanic mud which constitutes almost the entire mass of the bottom
deposit between the longitudes of 14° 40' and 23° 02' (the latter representing a
point distant about fifteen miles from the western shore we have just left) ceases
along a tract of about forty miles. Along this interval it is replaced by rounded
basaltic gravel; but at a distance of about sixty miles from land it re-appears, in
reduced quantity and a much more comminuted condition, as a slate-coloured
mud. From this point the traces grow fainter and fainter, until in long. 27° 33:
they are altogether suspended, the depth of water being 819 fathoms.
LIMITS OF VOLCANIC DEPOSIT. 15
At present I am unable to hazard even a supposition as to the source whence
the basalt is derived. The shape and smooth surface of the pieces clearly
seem to indicate a current or tideway. I t can hardly come from Breda fiord,
inasmuch as in passing across Faxe fiord it must have become associated with the
volcanic mud of which the bottom of that fiord is formed. On the other hand, it
is highly improbable that it has been deposited by floating ice, inasmuch as the
tract along which it occurs is precisely that most free from ice. But wherever
its source, the occurrence of such a well-defined interruption in the volcanic
deposit, coupled with the character of the basaltic gravel present in the interval,
seems irreconcileable with any other explanation than the one suggested, namely
the transporting and abrading action of a bottom current. But to this subject I
hope hereafter to be able to revert.
July 16.—For the first time since leaving the Faroes, the morning has been
ushered in with a clear sky, calm water, and a bracing but not chilly atmosphere.
Last night it was both cold and raw. The depths are gradually increasing, eacli
sounding exceeding the previous one by about one or two hundred fathoms. At
8 P.M. a sounding was made at 1377 fathoms, but with a greased sinker, A boom
was rigged out for me today, in order to try whether my surface-nets could be
used clear of the disturbed water produced by the progress of the ship. But
although the day w'as bright and the suiface calm, and the objects of my solicitude
were no doubt disporting themselves on all sides, the speed was an effectual
obstacle to success. I t is evident that, unless under sail only, any attempt at
surface operations will be futile. In a screw steamer it might perhaps be possible
to use the net, by having a boom rigged out from the waist or forecastle ; but in
a paddle ship it is out of the question.
July 17.—Depth still gradually increasing. Brooke’s machine has been employed
for the second time today. In sounding No. 28, about twenty miles
from Eekianess, it was let down, but failed to bring up a specimen of bottom,
although the depth was only 80 fathoms. Today, it only partially succeeded,
bringing up about half an ounce of mud. Had the construction of this apparatus
been suitable, a much larger quantity must have come up. What there was I
found sticking to the inner side of the cylinder at the point at which it is screwed
on to the shaft. All between the screw and valve had been washed out,—there
being a direct communication between the lower valvular aperture and the entire