Ill
of drifting ice, we sighted Little Vai'doe (the island lying a few miles seaward of
the settlement), and found any nearer approach as impracticable as before. I t is
evident, therefore, that instead of the vast fields of drifting ice through which
we have had to thread our way being the dispersed remnant of the pack pre-
riously blocking up the coast-line, they were fresh reinforcements brought up
by the strong south-westerly gales. In ordinary seasons the current from Cape
Farewell is of sufficient strength to keep the channel between Little Vardoe and
the mainland clear of ice, even when the rest of the coast is hemmed in. I t is
evident, therefore, that exceptional influences are in operation this year.
During a sounding taken at 2 p .m . in 100 fathoms, the rate of this current was
made apparent by the rapid manner in which the ‘ Bulldog ’ drifted towards an
immense grounded berg, in order to escape collision with which, the engines
had to be backed.
The berg in question was about 120 feet in height. As the ship passed within
a hundi-ed yards of it, I could perceive that, from the water-line, the mass diminished
rapidly in diameter and sloped upwards at a considerable angle on all
sides, whilst immediately below the surface it spread out horizontally for many
yards.
I am indebted to the kindness of Mr. Houghton, the chief engineer of the
• Bulldog,’ for having replaced my dredge. I t has been on its first voyage of
discovery, and brought up some interesting specimens of Corals, Polyzoa, and
Ascidians,—the latter presenting the velvety tinting of a ripe peach, some of the
former so delicate and fragile as to demand the most careful handling; and yet
every inch of the sea-bed on which they rest must now and then be ruthlessly
ploughed up and crushed beneath the icy mountains that traverse these waters!
Again the ‘ BuUdog’ turns her head seawards, but under sail only, inasmuch
as it is more than ever imperative to economize the little remaining stock of coal
on board. Passed through immense quantities of ice and saw some gigantic bergs.
About fifty mBes from land, one of these, at least 180 feet high, was stranded,
whilst the surface-cuiTent set so strongly towards it that it brought up a vast compact
field a distance of two miles in half an hour. The terrific crashing of this
moring mass was distinctly audible at a di,stance of three miles. Notwithstanding
the tendency of a bitterly cold Arctic drizzle to strangle every spark of sentiment
in its infancy, “ imagination bodied forth the forms of things unknown,” and
STATE OF THE ICE. 25
I saw before mo a superhuman host rushing on to the assault with a yell that
might make hell tremble, whilst a beleaguered garrison, conscious of the impregnability
of its position, awaited the assault in stern and silent defiance.
At this stage of the melodrama, the fog overcame both imagination and reality,
and the fortune of the day remains a mystery.
In the evening the ship was suddenly hemmed in by ice; and in order to extricate
her from this perilous position, she had to make a “ stern board.” Of course
it was admirably managed, and in a few minutes we were again in clear water.
Aug. 1.—Fine weather for once. Sounded for depth, which was found to
be 700 fathoms. Lat. 62° 3', long. Sl° 10'.
Aug. 3.—Stood in towards the land, making the Tallert bank again, immediately
off the Great Glacier. The day was beautifully fine, and gave us an opportunity
of forming an estimate of the state of the ice. The pack seems much broken
up, and is taking a north-westerly course seawards the wind being off shore. In
a northerly direction the ice does not seem to extend beyond half-a-dozen miles.
Inshore there is still a considerable quantity; but, from the heavy crushing roar
caused by the pressure of the masses against each other, it seems probable that
the whole pack is commencing to move away. The sound referred to is unlike
any other I have ever heard, inasmuch as it seems to proceed equally from the
entire coast-line within view, and, although loud and distinct, conveys the impression
of being felt rather than hear-d.
The Glacier looks as undemonstrative as ever, and grand in its stolidity.
The pack is reported to extend southwards as far as the eye can reach; but,
on our skirting its well-defined margin for some miles, the body of the ice is
observed turning off seawards about halfway between us and Frederickshaab.
Already it stretches out from land some twelve or fifteen miles. There are
“ lanes ” and patches of clear water to be seen within the pack; but none of these
are of a nature to warrant the attempt to force a passage through them—at all
events not in a paddle-ship.
In the afternoon a brig was reported in sight, some fifteen mücs off, standing
to the southward. She proved to be our colher. Her master states that he
arrived off Frederickshaab on the 18 th of last month, but, a terrific gale coming
on, he had to run out to sea again, and was eventually driven so far up to the
northward that he has only now been able to effect his return.
E