(!
scared to such a degree that for some moments they appeared unable to make
up their minds from which of the two elements around them they might expect
the greatest secm-ity. Owing to the calmness of the surface, it was possible to
see a long way ahead; and although here and there a bird might bob up, there
was nothing like the consentaneous uprising just referred to. The fact is
worthy of record, because, although the powers of the Divers and Auks to
remain under w'ater for considerable periods are well known, it would almost
appear that these little auks live as much below water as above it, and continue
gregarious whilst divmg.
This is the first bright moonlight night we have had since we put to sea. There
is not a cloud in the sky; and the deep silence is broken only by the murmur of
the tide against the sides of the ship. How different from a similar night-scene
in the tropics, where a hundred strange noises, produced by night-roaming beasts,
birds, and insects, would strike the ear', and impart to it a charm, the more intense
the more unfrequented and wild the locality.
Aug. 28.—At 8 .v.M. we arrived at Rigolette, a very picturesque little station
belonging to the Hudson’s Bay Company, occupied at present by a couple of their
employes. I t is situated in an extensive reach, bounded by granitic hills, clothed
vvith spruce-fir and white birch. The salmon-fishery is carried on here on a large
scale, but, as already mentioned, is just over for the season. I t appears that
two large decked boats which passed us yesterday afternoon were conveying the
salmon, and also the fui'S collected, to Indian Harbour, where they are shipped
for their destination by the Company’s Agent.
'The mosquitos are more numerous, more venomous, and larger than any
I have ever seen elsewhere. No precaution short of tying the head up in a
gauze bag suffices to protect it from their attacks; and my gauze nets were
accordingly in great requisition. Wherever the skin is exposed for a moment,
a dozen mosquitos immediately settle and draw large drops of blood. Their
bloodthirstiness is only equalled by their stupidity: for whilst an Indian
mosquito appears instinctively to know from the gesture of his victim when
any attempt is about to be made to destroy him, and instantly retreats, these
Labrador mosquitos go on sucking their fill, and stolidly await the blow which
terminates their existence.
I endeavoured to make my way through the pine-forest to a freshwater lake
said to be distant a mile from Eigolette; but after walking for a mile and a
half through a swampy sphagnum-covered clearing to the summit of a plateau
commanding a view of the lake, I saw that at least a couple of miles still remained
to be traversed, and accordingly returned in order to be back in time for the
departure of the ship.
The heat today was quite oppressive. In some mountains visible to the westward,
snow covers the summits. The Hudson’s Bay officials inform me that the
winter at this part of the inlet is by no means severe, although the temperature
often falls as low as —30° Fahr.
Some miles above Rigolette the stream suddenly contracts, and, sweeping round
a bluff island that rises up in the centre of its channel, rushes with great velocity
through “ The Narrows.” At certain periods of the year the current at this
portion of the inlet is said to attain a speed of from seven to eight miles an
hour, and to prevent the formation of ice when the rest of the inlet is frozen
over to the thickness of several feet. Not far from this point, a considerable
branch is given off from the southern shore, which is said to extend in an easterly
direction about fifty miles, but without forming any communication with the sea.
This branch is called “ Back Eiver.”
On emerging from “ The Narrow's,” we entered a large expanse of water
stretching away to the westward as far as the eye could reach, and apparently
about twelve or fifteen miles in breadth. When we anchored for the night,
there was still no land risible above the water-line to the westward*.
The higher we advance up this magnificent arm of the sea, the greater is the
distance reported to be between its eastern and western boundaries. At Indian
Harbour we were informed that the extreme length was between ninety and a
hundi-ed miles. Today, at Eigolette, it is stated to be neai'ly 120. I mention
the circumstance because, although it is by no means to be wondered at, that
persons moving about from settlement to settlement should only possess a
general knowledge of the geography of the couutiy, one would certainly expect to
find the bearings of such an inlet as this correctly laid down in the most modem
maps, and it seems almost incredible that, within a few Inmdred miles of our
North American colonies and naval stations, an arm of the sea of sufficient
* This extensive tract of 'water is noted in some chai-ts as “ Melville Lake ; ” but none of the settlers
along the inlet know it by that name. The Esquimaux name of Hamilton’s Inlet is Ivuktok.
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