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—some forming parties on tlie lake, in the manner before
n carriages, or on liorseback, visiting tlie neighbouring
engaging in various excursions,
described; others, in parties i
villages ; while others take provisions with them, or else depend on the adjacent cot-'
tagers for their repast, who reccive them with a politeness and civility which could not
fail to meet with its reward from the charitabl e disposition of the Genevese.
One of my greatest enjoyments, during my slay at Sécheron, was, on those days, to
witness the happiness, good-humour, and gaiety, wliich seemed diffused among those
industrious republicans, when returning in groups in the evening, meeting, as it were,
all at once, for feat of being too late for the shutting of the city-gates, although kept
open one hour later on the Sunday. What with the lively, comfortable, and cleanly
appearance and decent deportment of the lower class of citizens, and the taste exhibited
b y those of higher rank, the c«p- i 'm7was delightful, and could not fail of offering to the
sentimental traveler abundant matter for pleasing reflexion.
I t is certain that Geneva was at this period one of the first commercial places in
Switzerland, both on account of the flourishing state of its manufactures and advantageous
situation, as before noticed, inclosed between three states, and in every respect
a most convenient dipòi for merchandises. Sic. besides the easy manner of conveyance
b y means of the lake, the city standing as it does at its extremity.
T h e temperature of the air of Geneva is in general more cold than hot, though lying
in lat. 46" 13', long. 6= 15'. This circumstance is easily accounted for, from its proximity
t o the glaciers, and the direction of its lake, which, by tending nearly from S.S.W. to
N . N . E . often occasions cold northerly winds ¡ yet is the air pure and wholesome, and
t h e seasons sufficiently marked from each other. The produce of the garden, both
in fiuits and vegetables, is excellent. Bread is likewise good, and their meat remarkably
fine. The market is amply supplied with every article of consumption, and regularly
with fish fiom the lake, three times a w e e k , by people from Savoy and the Pays-de-Vaud.
I t is no ways uncommon to purchase delicious trout of fifteen or twenty pounds weight,
and perch of five or six. The quantity of wine made in the states of the republic
is trifling, and what they do make is of inferior quality; but this article is generally
procured from Savoy, the Maconnois, and the Pays-de-Vaud, where it is excellent,
and whence, from their nearness of situation, they can obtain it at a moderate rate.
There were formerly at Geneva some sumptuary laws, as there are still at Berne
and the other Swiss cantons. These were extremely strict, and went so far as to
1
restrain the inhabitants from keeping more than a certain number of domestics, horses,
and carriages. The same laws extended to their dress, and manner of living in times
of scarcity. But such prudent regulations, as well as others tending to similar purposes,
which had for a length of time preserved their mords, by restraining them from
superfluities, or, in other words, luxury, have now fallen into disuse, and been so totally
neglected, that there was no more resemblance in 1188 between a Genevese of that time,
and one at tire commencement of tile present century, than between an Athenian and a
Lacedffiinoniaiii
I am, however, ready to acknowledge, that several causes may have concurred towards
effecting so sudden a change, bot h in their character, morals, and manners ; though,
without wishing or indeed endeavouring to enumerate them, I shall confine myself
simply to those to which, in my opinion, that change ma, chiefly be attributed
1st, T o the introduction of foreign troops loto the garrison in 1'782. 2dly, To the
erection of a theatre. 3dly, To the establishing of coffee-houses, when clubs were
abolished : And, lastly, to the great number of foreigners, who rapidly succeeded each
other, and who, from making Geneva and its environs their residence, have introduced
a taste for luxury and fashion heretofore unknown among the Genevese.
I must not omit observing, that though, even previous to the French revolution,
the money of France was ohiefiy the current coin at Geneva, yet this little republic
coins Its own money in gold, silver, and copper. Its arms art-d'or, au dcmi-aigle
d, sabk, parti de gvalts à la ckf,targai. The silver key in the escutcheon was the
gift of pope Pius the Second, about tile middle of the sth century; and the eagle, that
of the emperor Rodolphus the First, in the 13th, considering it as an imperial city,
or belonging to the empire. Its motto or device has ever since the Reformation been
J o h n Owen, the old Welch bard, known by his sarcastical epigrams and bonnmu,
passing through Geneva in 1612, made the four following lines on their arms:
Clavem aquilamque gerlt, duplex insigne, Geneva ;
lltud Papatûs ; h«: habet Imperii.
Hoc insigne tuum quo jure, Geneva, tenebis.
Si répétai clavem Roma, Rodolphus avem Î
The same poet, likewise, deeming their laws too severe against adultery—that crime
being punished with d e a t h - h e composed an epigram on the subject i
* After darkness, light.
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