)
it, with the assistance of a singular circumstance, a spot not to be forgotten : for, just
as I was passing, the sound of voices struck my ear, when, looking round, I soon perceived
four muleteers, stout well-looking men, devoutly kneeling close to the chapel,
apparently in fervent prayer, whilst a fifth, at some little distance, diverted me not a
little. He, poor creature, as devout as his companions, was reciting his rosary in a low
and solemn accent; but so impressed with zeal and energy, that he did not see me,
though addressing the Holy Virgin in so ridiculous a manner that I could scarcely c
tain myself. Each strophe or stanza was accompanied with bitter imprecations against
his poor mules, who he was desirous should procccd on their journey, that no time
might be lost j but, as they did not exactly seem to coincide with him in opinion, he,
vastly enraged, while comparing the Virgin, in his pious ejaculations, to an ivory vase,
or a silver tpwer^ and expressing himself, as he intended, ' Spirituale,' or ' Turris ebiirnea,
ora pro nobis /' &c. spared neither F . . . . s nor B . . . . s, as occasion required.
Being unwilling to shock this poor fellow, though the scene was truly novel and
ridiculous, I disturbed him not, but pitied his ignorance, and journeyed on.
Not far from thence the surrounding country exhibits nothing but sterility and desolation,—
neither tree nor shrub to be seen; the atmosphere so rare, that the rhododendron
was the only bush I could perceive, and this but for a short time, having got
beyond the zone favourable for the vegetation of ligneous plants, though not more than
two thirds of the pass.
Still continuing to ascend, we soon began to perceive some scattered peaks of granite,
covered, in many places, with micaceous schist; but not till after ten long miles
laborious and fetiguing ascent from the town of Airolo, did we gain the summit of the
mountain. In my way I collected a number of curious stones, among which, contiguous
to the hospice, I found some garnets, similar to those already described, as well
as a small quantity of green and blue schorl, not unlike, as to coherency and variety of
colour, to the sappare of Bamffshire, in the north of Scotland. I also remarked some
different-coloured feldspath, among which were a few of pearl-colour, or gorge de
pigeon, that were beautiful, and of lamcllated structure; likewise black schorl, mica of
various tints, and crystals composed of black and white quartz,—the former of which is
common on Mont Tremola, a mountain contiguous to the high road.
Having walked for the space of three or four miles, on the plain which forms the
summit of the pass, where there are several small lakes, we reached the hospice, as
•s I