m
them be ever so withered or dead, when thrown into itj altliough, from the heat
of the water, it might naturally be supposed to have a contrary effect ; but so it is j and
no other wise can I account for it, than from the particles of neutral and alkaline salts
with which the water ¡s impregnated. Close to the baths begins the ascent to Mont
Gemmi, which is neither less curious nor wonderful than the former, being likewise
cut in the main rock for the space of seven or eight miles, in a continual zigzag, and
nearly every-where covered by the rock itself. This astonishing undertaking was completed
by order of the states of Berne and the republic of Valíais, at the beginning of
the present century j for, as this pass, which is as stupendous as the Great St. Bernard, is
much frequented by the mercantile people of the country, and those who visit the baths
of Loiche, these states found themselves equally interested in opening this passage,
though still passable only on mules or on foot, owing to the frequent falling of some
parts of the mountains that stand contiguous to the road ; which circumstance has
prevented it being entirely finished on the Swiss side.
This tremendous mountain is as curious in its construction as in tlie heterogeneity
of its strata. Its nucleus appears to be partly granite, and partly quartzose, micaceous
rock ; but, what seemed most remarkable, near its summit I observed calcareous strata,
of five feet thickness, in which were imbedded a vast quantity of fossils, mostly-cochliti
and anomis,—a very convincing proof of the extreme lieight of the sea at the time it submerged
our continents, since those same strata are now seven thousand feet above the
present level of the sea. At no great distance from the top of the mountain is also
found sulphur, vitriol, and vitriolic pyrites, besides a mine of silver ore, which is not
worked, though apparently very rich : there likewise stands an hospital, but small ; and
a deep lake, the drain of which is unknown. From the highest part of the mountain,
called Point Daubin, the prospect is both sublime and magnificent, for the eye wanders
westward, on an extensive glacier, that stretches in an easy ascent for the space of
five miles ; while, on the opposite side, the whole length of the valley of the Rhône is
distinguishable, with the Great St. Bernard at its head, Mont Velan, and the rest of the
frozen chain which separates the Valláis from Italy, forming a .noble aspect ; wliereas,
east and north, the view totally changes, and all is desolate and melancholy; for not
i n g but immense fragments of rock, piled mountains high, one on the other, spread
abroad, and strongly evince the dreadful convulsions of Nature which this mountain has
doubtless experienced at some veiy distant period.
181
About two miles and a half from the baths of Loiche I gained the basis of rocks on
which stands the village of Albinen, where ladders are placed, from rock to rock, in
the same manner as were originally near the baths. This viilagej which is situate in
the midst of an extensive plain or basin, nine hundred feet at least above the valley of
Loiche, is large and populous, the inhabitants being healthy and comfortable; and
though there is no other way of access to them than by the ladders above described,
it is nevertheless much frequented; and, as a proof of what I advance, I
shall here mention what I was witness to, and which may doubtless be depended on.
At the moment I was preparing to ascend, I observed, five hundred feet above me, a
woman, perched as it were on one of the ladders, carrying a pail on her head, and two
youths following. From the extreme distance they were at, they had a most singular
appearance, and might have been taken for birds rather than human beings j but from
their alacrity and manner of proceeding, had I not known by what means they were
reaching the summit, I might easily have conjectured that they were ascending a flight
of steps. From this village I returned to I.^uk by the way of Indene, a road by no
means so pleasant or instructive as the one I had taken in the morning.
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