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could in no wise affect me ; but still I felt for t
who were hastening, in apparent anxiety, with their wives and children, lest they should
arrive too late ; for, when the gates are once shut, and the draw-bridge raised, the case
is hopeless : neither apology nor entreaty can be of any avail ; and, unless upon an
occurrence of extreme urgency, or by express command from the principal syndic, with
whom the keys are deposited every evening, and who cannot grant them without consent
of a council convened for that purpose, these gates must remain shut.
The hôtel, or inn, where I had taken up my lodging, still kept by the same persons,
named Déjcan, I found, as was at that time generally the case, thronged with strangers,
mostly English, who, like myself, had chosen that situation as much from the civil and
obliging attention of the owners, and their convenient and comfortable accommodations,
as for the reasons above mentioned ; so that, instead of an apartment which I
expected, in the main body of the house, to my great satisfaction I had one procured in
an adjacent building, apparently isolated, though belonging to the same people.
Here I had no sooner taken possession of my apartment, than without attending,
from fatigue, to either aspect or situation, or even considering that it might probably
be seated on the banks of the lake, and of course likely to command one of the finest and
most extensive prospects of the glaciers of Savoy, and the surrounding country, I eagerly
sought the repose I stood so much in need of. But what was my astonishment, when,
on my being awakened soon after sun-rise by the reiterated report of fire-arms and the
sounds of martial music, hastily running to the window, one of the most noble and
majestic landscapes that man ever beheld offered itself to my view. I felt an instantaneous
sensation of surprise and admiration, such as I had rarely experienced.
It is certain that the surrounding objects were in themselves amply sufiîcient to render
the scene highly gratifying, and, I may say, fascinating ; yet the circumstance which
had at first aroused me, and which I shall hereafter endeavour to describe, assisted most
forcibly, by combining the taste and amusements of the Genevese, to complete the
effect.
Let my reader for a moment suppose the frozen summits of the mountains of Fancignie
gilded by the brilliant rints of the sun, one of the most beautiful mornings in
June, lighting up not only with a ruddy glow that part of the Alps, but unveiling the
whole face of Nature, and brightening every colour of the landscape,—the air serene,
and the atmosphere impregnated by the flowers and blossoms which the trees and
meadows still displayed, m i l e one side of this noble lake washed, with its transparent
waters, the walls of my habitation, the opposite side watered the basis of the rich and
ferrile hills of Cologny, which may be said to serve as its southern boundary. Looking
up, in almost a straight direction from where I stood, I beheld the elevated and stupendous
Mont-Môle far distant in the back-ground,—which, though, even at that hour of
the morning, in part immersed in a purple vapour, yet exhibited its spiry summit, rising
like a majestic pyramid, taking the beautiful hills of Cologny, as it were, for a basis.
On the other hand, the naked and rugged mountain ofSalêve, and the well-cultivated
Voirons, seemed to have separated only in order to display, by the contrast of their
colour, more brilliancy and magnificence in the sublime prospect of the Glaciers, discernible
between that separation,—exhibiting an astonishing and noble amphitheatre
of mountains, rising rapidly on all sides, each more elevated than the other, and crowned
by that colossus of granite, snow, and eternal ice, Mont-Blanc, whose extreme elevation
commands both wonder and admiration.
As it is Impossible to conceive any prospect more rude, bold, and magnificent, than
the one just described, I hope I may be excused for suffering those objects to have so
occupied my attention, and so absorbed my ideas, as to divert me from the cause which
had roused me so early to the contemplation of the scenes of Nature. To this, however,
I soon returned, and here witnessed a sight, which as much fascinated my heart as those
inanimate objects had my senses ; for I freely acknowledge, that I have never been
able to be present at any kind of popular or national amusements or recreations whatever,
without experiencing much enjoyment and satisfaction,—sentiments which are better
felt than described, and which make me as much participate in their happiness as if I
were its chief promoter. Yet are these sensations rendered more lively or pure, in proportion
as the happiness of each individual does not too forcibly contrast itself with the misery
and poverty of the mass who compose the spectators. No contrast of this kind existed at
this time. The Genevese then forming, by their institution, as it were, one family, the poor
were invariably assisted by the opulent, and each individual enabled to procure, on the
Sunday, some rational and innocent amusement or recrearion, suitable to his situation.
But, alas ! how changed, ye Ul-fated and unfortunate people !—once so happy, yet so
soon rendered miserable and wretched by too great a share of levity, ambition, wealth,
and fallacious speculations. What misfortunes might ye not have avoided, had ye been
satisfied with your lot, by comparing your comfortable situation with the striking con