In the evening we had further proof of the Arab hospitality of
yore. A slave of the Shereef’s, brought to each tent a dish of meat
and broth, and ten small loaves; this most ancient custom the Sheik
of the Sultan keeps up and strictly adheres to on arrival of each
caravan ; soon after, he sent to each of us three small loaves for the
morrow’s breakfast.
SECTION V.
Further journey— and arrival at Mourzouk.
m e left the hospitable Zuila the ensuing morning, and having
passed through a grove of date trees, came to an extensive and open
plain over which we marched seven hours, and then arrived at
Hemara; a small village, thin in people, and wretched in appearance,
though the country round is most fertile. Here for the first time I
was regaled with the great Fezzan dainty of locusts or grasshoppers,
and a drink called lugibi. The latter is composed of the
juice of date trees, and when fresh is sweet and agreeable enough
to the taste, but is apt to produce flatulencies and diarrhoea. At
first I did not relish the dried locusts, but when accustomed, grew
fond of them: when eaten, the legs and wings are broken off and
the inner part is scooped out, and what remains has a flavour similar
to that of red herrings, but more delicious.
The succeeding day we were on march before sunrise; our road
crossed a plain, with date trees to the south, among which I descried
several small villages. I was till noon separated from my
usual party, the Sultan’s Sheik of Zuila being pleased to select me
as his particular companion. His ordinary clothes were very much
worn, and even ragged; he had a cloak, the badge of his high
office;, he chose to ride with me (as he said) because he deemed it
dishonour to ride with the merchants. When permitted to quit him
and rejoin my old comrades, I found them in great glee and spirits,
at being so near the place where they had houses and families;
I s