sell to the Arabs of the Desert, and in part carry to Alexandria, and
exchange for corn, oil, or fat. Their manners are rude and simple,
as might be expected, from a society so small, and separated from
every other, by vast tracts of desert in every direction. Thus sequestered
from the world, too weak in numbers for attack, and too poor
to be attacked, these people derive, from their situation and habits
of life, a simple and peaceful disposition. An old man told me, that
the Bedouins once attempted to deprive them of their rock, and
pittance which the date trees around furnished; and would have
succeeded, had not a marabut (or holy man) who lies buried m the
village, so dazzled the eyes of the invaders, that they could not find
the place, though constantly roving round it. A like miracle was
hoped for, and (in vain certainly) expected in favour of Cairo, when
the French invaded Egypt. The idea of miraculous interposition of
this kind appears to have been common to the Oriental nations.
During our stay at this place, the effects of a Twater, who died
on the journey were sold by auction. Another man, during our
route, was killed by a fall from his camel, pitching with his head
on a pointed stone, and which caused his instant death. Two others,
poor pilgrims from Mecca, fell victims to the fatigue and difficulties
of so long a journey, and for Which their scanty means were ill
suited, either as to food or rest; and this completes our bill of
mortality.
After some days of repose, we proceeded on our journey towards
Siwah, distant from Ummesogeir a journey of twenty hours. We
soon passed the skirts of the broad sandy plain, and reascended
the mountains connected with, and stretching from, those which
cover the vale of Ummesogeir to the west. A long and tedious
passage over these hills led us finally to a green and fertile valley,;
towards which, as we descended from the mountain, we perceived
people gathering provender for their cattle. Our train of heavy laden
camels readily denoted that we were no troop of hostile Arabs; and
the people leaving their work, ran to meet and congratulate us on
our arrival. They told us that the whole neighbourhood was at
peace, and that we might encamp safely and without apprehension.
They mounted their asses and conducted us to a plain west of Siwah,
and not far distant from that town, where we pitched our tents.