before travelled with a caravan, and being little acquainted with the
customs and manners of those who Composed it. We had travelled
from day-break till noon, and no indication appeared of halt or
refreshment, when I observed the principal and richest merchants
gnawing a dry biscuit and some onions, as they went on; and was
then, for the first time, informed, that it was not customary to
unload the camels for regular repast, or to stop during the daytime,
but in cases of urgent necessity. This my first inconvenience,
was soon remedied by the hospitality of some Arabs who were riding
near me, and who invited me to partake of their provisions.
Soon after sun-set, our Sheik gave the signal for halting; and we
pitched our tents.
My dragoman, or interpreter, might, even in Europe, have passed
for a good cook; and from remains of the provision which our
hospitable friends at Cairo had supplied, was preparing an excellent
supper, when an old Arab of Augila, observing his preparations,
and that myself was unemployed, addressed me nearly as follows :
“ Thou art young, and yet dost not assist in preparing the meal of
which thou art to partake: such, perhaps, may he a custom in the
land of infidels, but is not so with us, and especially on a journey:
thanks to God, we are not, in this desert, dependent on others, as are
those poor pilgrims, but eat and drink what we ourselves provide,
and as we please. Thou oughtest to learn every thing that the
meanest Arab performs, that thou mayest be enabled to asssit others
in cases of necessity; otherwise, thou wilt be less esteemed, as being
of less value than a mere woman; and many will think they may
justly deprive thee of every thing in thy possession, as being unworthy
to possess any thing: (adding sarcastically,) perhaps thoU
art carrying a large sum of money, and payest those men well.
This remonstrance was not thrown away. I immediately assisted
in every thing that was not beyond my force; and proportionally
gained on the good opinion and esteem of my fellow-travellers, and
was no longer considered as a weak and useless idler in their troop.
The next morning we set out early, and after a march of four
hours, arrived at JVadey-el-Lutron. The signal had been made to
halt, for the purpose of collecting fresh water, when a troop of
Bedouins appeared at some distance in front, and created great
alarm in our caravan. Our Sheik, or leader, had acquired, and
deserved, the veneration and confidence of his followers, as much
from his known prudence and valour, as from his dignity of Iman.
He immediately ordered us to occupy the spot affording water, and
himself, with about twenty Arabs and Tuaricks, advanced to reconnoitre
the ground where the Bedouins had appeared : they had now
retreated wholly out of sight, and we had time to cook and fill our
water bags. We could not, however, consider this as a proper or
safe station for the night; accordingly at four o’clock we proceeded
on our march ; and about eight in the evening reached the foot of
a sand-hill, and encamped in great disorder, created by the late
alarm;— making no fires, and using every precaution to avoid notice
or discovery of our retreat.
The next morning, September 8th, we entered the Desert, which
may be considered as the boundary of Egypt; and after travelling
thirteen hours, encamped on a tract of land by the Arabs called
Mubabag.
The ensuing day, our journey was less fatiguing; in four hours
and a half we reached Mogara, a watering-place on the verge of a
fruitful valley.
B s