in great comfort, and sent me off to a dreary hut, where
I had to sleep upon a grass-strewn floor. I was surprised
we had to walk so far, when, by appearance, we might
have boated it from the head of the creek all the way-
down ; but, on inquiry, was informed the swampy nature
of the ground at the head of the creek precluded any approach
to the clear water there, and hence the long overland
journey, which, though fatiguing to the unfortunate
women, who had to trot the whole way behind Mtdsa’s
four-mile-an-hour strides, was very amusing. The whole
of the scenery—hill, dale, and lake—was extremely beautiful.
The Wangiiana in my escort compared the view
to their own beautiful Poani (coast); but in my opinion it
far surpassed anything I ever saw, either from the sea or
upon the coast of Zanzibar.
The king rose betimes in the morning and called me,
unwashed and very uncomfortable, to picnic Cowes, 24to. . . . J 7 A
with him, during the collection of the boats.
The breakfast, eaten in the open court, consisted of sundry
baskets of roast-beef and plantain-squash, folded in
plantain-leaves. He sometimes ate with a copper knife
and picker, not forked—but more usually like a dog, with
both hands. The bits too tough for his mastication he
would take from his mouth and give as a treat to the
pages, who n’yanzigged, and swallowed them with much
seeming relish. Whatever remained over was then divided
by the boys, and the baskets taken to the cooks. Pombe
served as tea, coffee, and beer for the king; but his
guests might think themselves very lucky if they ever
got a drop of it.
Now for the lake. Everybody in a hurry falls into his
place the best way he can—Wakungu leading, and women
behind. They rattle along, through plantains and shrubs,
under large trees, seven, eight, and nine feet in diameter,
till the beautiful waters are reached—a picture of the Eio
scenery, barring that of the higher mountains in the background
of that lovely* place, which are here represented
by the most beautiful little hills. A band of fifteen
drums of all sizes, called the Mazagiizo, playing with
the regularity of a lot of factory engines at work, announced
the king’s arrival, and brought all the boats
to the shore—but not as in England, where Jack, with
all the consequence of a lord at home* invites the ladies
to be seated, and enjoys the sight of so many pretty
faces. Here every poor fellow, with his apprehensions
written in his face, leaps over the gunwale into the
water — ducking his head from fear of being accused
of gazing on the fair sex, which is death — and bides
patiently his time. They were dressed in plantain-
leaves, looking like grotesque Neptunes. The king, in
his red coat and wideawake, conducted the arrangements,
ordering all to their proper places — the women
in certain boats, the Wakungu and Wangiiana in
others, whilst I sat in the same boat with him at his
feet, three women holding mbugus of pombd behind.
The king’s Kisiiahili now came into play, and he was
prompt in carrying out the directions he got from myself
to approach the hippopotami. But the waters were too
large and the animals too shy, so we toiled all the day
without any effect, going only once ashore to picnic ; not
for the women to eat — for they, poor things, got nothing—
but the king, myself, the pages, and the principal
Wakungii. As a wind-up to the day’s amusement, the
king led the band of drums, changed the men according
to their powers, put them into concert pitch, and readily
detected every slight irregularity, showing himself a
thorough musician.
This day requires no remark, everything done being
c • the counterpart of yesterday, excepting that
the king, growing bolder with me in consequence
of our talking together, became more playful
and familiar—amusing himself, for instance, sometimes