a guide ? No one knows the road.” The moon was
up, and the mountain of Belignan was distinctly visible
about nine miles distant. Knowing that the
route lay on the east side of that mountain, I led
the way, Mrs. Baker riding by my side, and the
British flag following close behind us as a guide for
the caravan of heavily laden camels and donkeys. We
shook hands warmly with Dr. Murie, who had come
to see us off, and thus we started on our march in
Central Africa on the 26th of March, 1863.
CHAPTER IVFIRST
NIGHT’S MARCH.
The country was park-like, but much parched by the
dry weather. The ground was sandy, but firm, and
interspersed with numerous villages, all of which were
surrounded with a strong fence of euphorbia. The
country was well wooded, being free from bush or
jungle, but numerous trees, all evergreens, were
scattered over the landscape. No natives were to be
seen, but the sound of their drums and singing in
chorus was heard in the far distance. Whenever it
is moonlight the nights are passed in singing and
dancing, beating drums, blowing horns, and the population
of whole villages thus congregate together.
After a silent march of two hours we saw watch-
fires blazing in the distiyice, and upon nearer approach
we perceived the trader’s party bivouacked. Their
custom is to march only two or three hours on the