Gondokoro is a great improvement upon the interminable
marshes ; the soil is firm and raised about
twenty feet above the river level. Distant mountains
relieve the eye accustomed to the dreary flats of the
White Nile ; and evergreen trees scattered over the
face of the landscape, with neat little native villages
beneath their shade, form a most invitinog landingo--
place after a long and tedious voyage. This spot was
formerly a mission-station. There remain to this day
the ruins of the brick establishment and church, and
the wreck of what was once a garden ; groves of
citron and lime-trees still exist, the only signs that
an attempt at civilization has been made—“ seed cast
upon the wayside.” There is no town. Gondokoro
is merely a station of the ivory traders, occupied for
about two months during the year, after which time
it is deserted, when the annual boats return to Khartoum
and the remaining expeditions depart for the
interior. A few miserable grass huts are all that
dignify the spot with a name. The climate is unhealthy
and hot. The thermometer from 90° to 95°
Fahr. at noon in the shade.
I landed the animals from the boats in excellent
condition, all rejoicing in the freedom of open pasturage.
CHAPTEK II.
BAD RECEPTION- AT GONDOKORO.
All were thankful that the river voyage was concluded
; the tedium of the White Nile will have been
participated by the reader, upon whom I have inflicted
the journal, as no other method of description could
possibly convey an idea of the general desolation.
Having landed all my stores, and housed my corn in
some granaries belonging to Koorshid Aga, I took a
receipt from him for the quantity, and gave him an
order to deliver one-half from my dépôt to Speke and
Grant, should they arrive at Gondokoro during my'
absence in the interior. I was under an apprehension
that they might arrive by some route without my
knowledge, while I should be penetrating south.
There were a great number of men at Gondokoro
belonging to the various traders, who looked upon me
with the greatest suspicion ; they could not believe