132 N A V I G A T I O N O F T H E M I S S I S S I P P I.
rations. The barge in the mean time is ascending at a rate not exceeding
one mile in the hour.
The bar is at length passed, and as the shore in sight is straight on
both sides of the river, and the current uniformly strong, the poles are
laid aside, and the men being equally divided, those on the river side
take to their oars, whilst those on the land side lay hold of the branches
of willows, or other trees, and thus slowly propel the boat. Here and
there, however, the trunk of a fallen tree, partly lying on the bank, and
partly projecting beyond it, impedes their progress, and requires to be
doubled. This is performed by striking it with the iron points of the
poles and gaff-hooks. The sun is now quite low, and the barge is again
secured in the best harbour within reach. The navigators cook their
supper, and betake themselves to their blankets or bear-skins to rest, or
perhaps light a large fire on the shore, under the smoke of which they
repose, in order to avoid the persecutions of the myriads of moschettoes
which occur during the whole summer along the river. Perhaps, from
dawn to sunset, the boat may have advanced fifteen miles. If so, it has
done well. The next day, the wind proves favourable, the sail is set,
the boat takes all advantages, and meeting with no accident, has ascended
thirty miles, perhaps double that distance. The next day comes with a
very different aspect. The wind is right a-head, the shores are without
trees of any kind, and the canes on the banks are so thick and stout,
that not even the cordelles can be used. This occasions a halt. The
time is not altogether lost, as most of the men, being provided with rifles,
betake themselves to the woods, and search for the deer, the bears, or the
turkeys, that are generally abundant there. Three days may pass before
the wind changes, and the advantages gained on the previous fine day
are forgotten. Again the boat proceeds, but in passing over a shallow
place runs on a log, swings with the current, but hangs fast, with her leaside
almost under water. Now for the poles ! All hands are on deck,
bustling and pushing. At length towards sunset, the boat is once more
afloat, and is again taken to the shore, where the wearied crew pass another
night.
I shall not continue this account of difficulties, it having already become
painful in the extreme. I could tell you of the crew abandoning
the boat and cargo, and of numberless accidents and perils; but be
it enough to say, that, advancing in this tardy manner, the boat that left
New Orleans on the first of March, often did not reach the Falls of the
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Ohio until the month of July,—nay, sometimes not until October; and
after all this immense trouble, it brought only a few bags of coffee, and
at most 100 hogsheads of sugar. Such was the state of things in 1808.
The number of barges at that period did not amount to more than 25 or 30,
and the largest probably did not exceed 100 tons burden. To make the best
of this fatiguing navigation, I may conclude by saying, that a barge which
came up in three months had done wonders, for I believe, few voyages
were performed in that time.
If I am not mistaken, the first steam-boat that went down out of the
Ohio to New Orleans was named the " Orleans,1"' and if I remember right,
was commanded by Captain O G D E N . This voyage, I believe was performed
in the spring of 1810. It was, as you may suppose, looked upon
as the ne plus ultra of enterprise. Soon after, another vessel came from
Pittsburg, and before many years elapsed, to see a vessel so propelled
become a common occurrence. In 1826, after a lapse of time that proved
sufficient to double the population of the United States of America,
the navigation of the Mississippi had so improved both in respect to facility
and quickness, that I know no better way of giving you an idea of
it, than by presenting you with an extract of a letter from my eldest son,
which was taken from the books of N. B E I I T H O U D , Esq. with whom he at
that time resided.
" You ask me in your last letter for a list of the arrivals and departures
here. I give you an abstract from our list of 1826, shewing the
number of boats which plied each year, their tonnage, the trips which
they performed, and the quantity of goods landed here from New Orleans
and intermediate places.
" 1823, from Jan. 1. to Dec. 31. 42 boats, measuring 7,860 tons. 98 trips. 19,453 tons.
1824, do. 1. Nov. 25. 36 do. 6,393 do. 118 do. 20,291 do.
1825, do. 1. Aug. 15. 42 do. 7,484 do. 140 do. 24,102 do.
1826, do. 1. Dec. 31. 51 do. 9,388 do. 182 do. 28,914 do.
" The amount for the present year will be much greater than any of the
above. The number of flat-boats and keels is beyond calculation. The
number of steam-boats above the Falls I cannot say much about, except
that one or two arrive at and leave Louisville every day. Their passage
from Cincinnati is commonly 14 or 16 hours. The Tecumseh, a boat
which runs between this place and New Oilcans, and which measures
210 tons, arrived here on the 10th instant, in 9 days 7 hours, from port