T H E GREAT P I N E SWAMP.
I LEFT Philadelphia, at four of the morning, by the coach, with no other
accoutrements than I knew to be absolutely necessary for the jaunt which
I intended to make. These consisted of a wooden box, containing a small
stock of linen, drawing paper, my journal, colours and pencils, together
with 25 pounds of shot, some flints, the due quantum of cash, my gun
Tear-jacket, and a heart as true to nature as ever.
Our coaches are none of the best, nor do they move with the velocity
of those of some other countries. It was eight, and a dark night, when I
reached Mauch Chunk, now so celebrated in the Union for its rich coal
mines, and eighty-eight miles distant from Philadelphia. I had passed
through a very diversified country, part of which was highly cultivated,
while the rest was yet in a state of nature, and consequently much more
agreeable to me. On alighting, I was shewn to the travellers1 room, and
on asking for the landlord, saw coming towards me a fine-looking young
man, to whom I made known my wishes. He spoke kindly, and offered
to lodge and board me at a much lower rate than travellers who go there
for the very simple pleasure of being dragged on the railway. In a word,
I was fixed in four minutes, and that most comfortably.
No sooner had the approach of day been announced by the cocks of
the little village, than I marched out with my gun and note-book, to
judge for myself of the wealth of the country. After traversing much
ground, and crossing many steep hills, I returned, if not wearied, at least
much disappointed at the extraordinary scarcity of birds. So I bargained
to be carried in a cart to the central parts of the Great Pine Swamp, and,
although a heavy storm was rising, ordered my conductor to proceed.
We winded round many a mountain, and at last crossed the highest.
The weather had become tremendous, and we were thoroughly drenched,
but my resolution being fixed, the boy was obliged to continue his driving.
Having already travelled about fifteen miles or so, we left the turnpike,
and struck up a narrow and bad road, that seemed merely cut out
to enable the people of the Swamp to receive the necessary supplies from
the village which I had left. Some mistakes were made, and it was almost
dark, when a post directed us to the habitation of a Mr JEDIAH
IRISH, to whom I had been recommended. We now rattled down a steep
declivity, edged on one side by almost perpendicular rocks, and on the
other by a noisy stream, which seemed grumbling at the approach of
strangers. The ground was so overgrown by laurels and tall pines of
different kinds, that the whole presented only a mass of darkness.
At length we got to the house, the door of which was already opened,
the sight of strangers being nothing uncommon in our woods, even in the
most remote parts. On entering, I was presented with a chair, while my
conductor was shewn the way to the stable, and on expressing a wish
that I should be permitted to remain in the house for some weeks, I was
gratified by receiving the sanction of the good woman to my proposal, although
her husband was then from home. As I immediately fell a-talking
about the nature of the country, and inquired if birds were numerous
in the neighbourhood, Mrs I R I S H , more au fait to household affairs than
ornithology, sent for a nephew of her husband's, who soon made his appearance,
and in whose favour I became at once prepossessed. He conversed
like an educated person, saw that I was comfortably disposed of, and
finally bade me good-night in such a tone as made me quite happy.
The storm had rolled away before the first beams of the morning sun
shone brightly on the wet foliage, displaying all its richness and beauty.
My ears were greeted by the notes, always sweet and mellow, of the Wood
Thrush and other songsters. Before I had gone many steps, the woods
echoed to the report of my gun, and I picked from among the leaves a
lovely Sylvia, long sought for, but until then sought for in vain. I needed
no more, and standing still for awhile, I was soon convinced that the
Great Pine Swamp harboured many other objects as valuable to me.
The young man joined me, bearing his rifle, and offered to accompany
me through the woods, all of which he well knew. But I was anxious to
transfer to paper the form and beauty of the little bird I had in my hand ;
and requesting him to break a twig of blooming laurel, we returned to the
house, speaking of nothing else than the picturesque beauty of the country
around.
A few days passed, during which I became acquainted with my hostess
and her sweet children, and made occasional rambles, but spent the greater
portion of my time in drawing. One morning, as I stood near the window
of my room, I remarked a tall and powerful man alight from his
horse, loose the girth of the saddle, raise the latter with one hand, pass
the bridle over the head of the animal with the other, and move towards
the house, while the horse betook himself to the little brook to drink. I
heard some movements in the room below, and again the same tall person
walked towards the mills and stores, a few hundred yards from the house.