3§o Th e w e s t i n d i e $
The Gulf of Paria affords a spacious harbour, but
the only port of importance, and the capital and
chief town of the colony, is Port of Spain, in the
angle where the west coast turns along the promontory
to the Boca Drago. There large vessels have
to anchor a mile away from the wharves on account
of a lack of depth in the water. There is deep water
in Chaguaramas Bay, but the landward surroundings
are unfavourable, and its beach is mainly a health
and pleasure resort, like Mono Island near by. Port
of Spain is a thriving city of 35,000 people, built
mostly of stone, with broad, thickly shaded streets
running up from the shore and intersected at right
angles with cross streets. Back of it is a broad
savanna called Queen’s Park, having a fine racetrack
at one end, and beyond that is a large botanical
garden filled with the trees and plants of the
tropics and many exotics from Europe and America.
In the midst of this spacious and splendid garden
is the governor s palace. Spreading beyond these
public grounds are the plantations, fields, gardens,
and groves that furnish the products of the land'
amid magnificent palms, great cedars and ceibas,
and other trees that ornament the landscape, though
in the interim* long stretches of road may be found
which are wholly unshaded by foliage and exposed
to the sweltering tropic sun.
Within the city are busy streets, some spacious
public squares, and a few fine buildings of stone.
The English cathedral stands on Brunswick Square
and the Roman Catholic cathedral on Marine Square,
with which a popular promenade is connected.
There are several other churches, an excellent club,'
TOBAGO AND TRINIDAD 381
and many comfortable residences. Notwithstanding
its tropical climate and its Spanish traditions,
Port of Spain has much the air of a thriving English
town, and is on the whole well kept, though
keeping the streets clear of unwholesome refuse is
left chiefly to the black vultures. These ungainly
and repulsive creatures perch upon the roofs, flop
down into the roadways, halt gawkily about, picking
up garbage, and make themselves so familiar as
to startle the stranger; but they are under the protection
of the law, and seem to know it, on account of
their useful public service. Near the city is an extensive
barracks for the soldiers who are quartered here.
I t is only a few miles to the old Spanish capital,
San Josef, which still brings the quaintness of the
sixteenth century into the present time. Down
the coast about thirty miles is the second city
and seaport of the island, San Fernando, but its
population hardly reaches 7000. Back of it, sloping
up from the coast, is another region of plantations
and fruitful groves, and near by is the most characteristic
Hindu village on the island, a point of
special interest to visitors. I t is ten miles farther
down this western or gulf coast to L a Braye, whence
the asphalt shipments are made. The largest inland
towns are Tacarigua, Arouca, and Arima, in the
region of which Port of Spain is the outlet; and
Montserrat and Prince’s Town are attractive villages
in the fruitful district back of San Fernando. These
towns are largely points at which produce is collected
to be sent to the seaports, and there is some six ty or
seventy miles of railroad making the connections,
built by the government.