Leaving Bileling, a pleasant sail of two days brought
us to Ampanam in the island of Lombock, where I proposed
to remain till I could obtain a passage to Macassar.
We enjoyed superb views of the twin volcanoes of Bali
and Lombock, each about eight thousand feet high, which
form magnificent objects at sunrise and sunset, when they
rise out of the mists and clouds that surround their bases,
glowing with the rich and changing tints of these the
most charming moments in a tropical day.
The bay or roadstead of Ampanam is extensive, and
being at this season sheltered from the prevalent southeasterly
winds, was as smooth as a lake. The beach of
black volcanic sand is very steep, and there is at all times
- a heavy surf upon it, which during spring-tides increases
to such an extent that it is often impossible for boats to
land, and many serious accidents have occurred. Where
we lay anchored, about a quarter of a ttiile from the shore,
not the slightest swell was perceptible, but on approaching
nearer undulations began, which rapidly increased, so as to
form rollers which toppled over on to the beach at regular
intervals with a noise like thunder. Sometimes this surf
increases suddenly during perfect calms, to as great a force
and fury as when a gale of wind is blowing, beating to
pieces all boats that may not have been hauled sufficiently
high upon the beach, and carrying away incautious natives.
This violent surf is probably in some way dependent on
the swell of the great southern ocean, and the violent
currents that flow through the Straits of Lombock. These
are so uncertain that vessels preparing to anchor in the
bay are sometimes suddenly swept away into the straits,
and are not able to get back again for a fortnight!
What seamen call the “ ripples ” are also very violent in
the straits, the sea appearing to boil and foam and dance
like the rapids below a cataract; vessels are swept about
helpless, and small ones are occasionally swamped in the
finest weather and under the brightest skies.
I felt considerably relieved when all my boxes and
myself had passed in safety through the devouring surf,
which the natives look upon with some pride, saying,
that “ their sea is always hungry, and eats up everything
it can catch.” I was kindly received by Mr. Carter, an
Englishman, who is one of the Bandars or licensed traders
of the port, who offered me hospitality and every assistance
during my stay. His house, storehouses, and offices were
in a yard surrounded by a tall bamboo fence, and were
entirely constructed of bamboo with a thatch of grass, the
only available building materials. Even these were now
very scarce, owing to the great consumption in rebuilding
the place since the great fire some months before, which in
an hour or two had destroyed every building in the town.
The next day I went to see Mr. S., another merchant
to whom I had brought letters of introduction, and who