next morning. The first mile was over open country,
which brought us to the forest that covers the whole
mountain from a height of about 5,000 feet. The next
mile or two was a tolerably steep ascent through a grand
virgin forest, the trees being of great size, and the undergrowth
consisting of fine herbaceous plants, tree-ferns,
and shrubby vegetation. I was struck by the immense
number of ferns that grew by the side of the road. Their
variety seemed endless, and I was continually stopping to
admire some new and interesting forms. I could now well
understand what I had been told by the gardener, that
300 species had been found on this one mountain. A
little before noon wTe reached the small plateau of Tjiburong,
at the foot of the steeper part of the mountain, where
there is a plank-house for the accommodation of travellers.
Close by is a picturesque waterfall and a curious cavern,
which I had not time to explore. Continuing our ascent
the road became narrow, rugged and steep, winding zigzag
up the cone, which is covered with irregular masses of
rock, and overgrown with a dense luxuriant blit less lofty
vegetation. We passed a torrent of water which is not
much lower than the boiling point, and has a most singular
appearance as it foams over its rugged bed, sending up
clouds of steam, and often concealed by the overhanging
herbage of ferns and lycopodia, which here thrive with
more luxuriance than elsewhere.
At about 7,500 feet we came to another hut of open
bamboos, at a place called Kandang Badak, or “ Rhinoceros-
field,” which we were going to make our temporary abode.
Here was a small clearing, with abundance of tree-ferns
and some young plantations of Cinchona. As there was now
a thick mist and drizzling rain, I did not attempt to go on to
the summit that evening, but made two visits to it during
my stay, as well as one to the active crater of Gedeh. This
is a vast semicircular chasm, bounded by black perpendicular
walls of rock, and surrounded by miles of rugged scoria-
covered slopes. The crater itself is not very deep. It
exhibits patches of sulphur and variously-coloured volcanic
products, and emits from several vents continual
streams of smoke and vapour. The extinct cone of Pangerango
was to me more interesting. The summit is an
irregular undulating plain with a low bordering ridge, and
one deep lateral chasm. Unfortunately there was perpetual
mist and rain either above or below us all the
time I was on the mountain; so that I nftver once saw the
plain below, or had a glimpse of the magnificent view
which in fine weather is to be obtained from its summit.
Notwithstanding this drawback I enjoyed the excursion
exceedingly, for it was the first time I had been high
enough on a mountain near, the Equator to watch the
change from a tropical to a temperate flora. I will now
briefly sketch these changes as I observed them in Java.