pure English. To be able to converse in the interior
of Sumatra, in my native tongue, was indeed a
pleasure I had not anticipated. The distance from
Tanjong Agong to this place is eleven paals, about
ten miles.
A p ril 21 th—Continued down the north b an t of
the Musi, which here flows to the northwest. For
three or four paals the path (for it cannot properly
be styled a road) was very narrow, and built on the
steep side of a mountain, at the foot of which the
Musi boils in a series of rapids. When within six
or seven miles of Tebing Tingi, we found the valley
much broken, and soon it became flat, and changed
in many places into morasses. Here we came to a
small stream, over which was a bamboo bridge,
supported by rattans fastened to the limbs of two
high, overhanging trees. This was so weak that
my guide directed me to dismount and pass on
foot. At 2 a . m. we arrived at Tebing Tingi,
where an assistant resident is stationed, who received
me politely, and urged me to remain with
liim several days. Distance made to-day, seventeen
paals. The whole distance from Kopaiyong to this
place, forty-five paals, I have travelled with the
single horse given me by the conProleur of that village.
Such is the generous manner in which the
Dutch officials treat those who come to them properly
.recommended by the higher authorities.
After crossing the Barizan chain, and coming
down into this valley of the Musi, I have noticed
that the natives are of a lighter color, taller, and
more gracefully formed than those seen in the vicinity
of Bencoolen. The men always carry a kris or
a lance when they go from one kampong to another.
The same laws and customs prevail here as
in the vicinity of Bencoolen, except that the jugur,
or price of a bride, is considerably higher. The anak
gadis here also wear many rings of large silver wire
on the forearm, and gold beads on the wrist, in
token of their virginity. The Resident states to me
that the native population does not appear to increase
in this region, and that the high price of the
brides is the chief reason. As the price is paid to the
girl’s parents, and not to herself, she has less inducement
to conduct herself in accordance with their
wishes; and, to avoid the natural consequences of
their habits, the anak gadis are accustomed to take
very large doses of pepper, which is mixed with
salt, in order to be swallowed more easily. Many
are never married, and most of those who are, bear
but two or three children, after they have subjected
themselves to such severe treatment in their youth.
A p ril 2lth.—Rode five or six paals up ¿he Musi,
and then crossed it at the foot of a rapid on a
“ racket,” or raft of bamboo, the usual mode of ferrying
in this island. In the centre of the raft is
a kind of platform, where the passenger sits. One
native stands at the bow, and one at the stern, each
having a long bamboo. The racket is then drawn
up close to the foot of the rapids, and a man keeps
her head to the stream, while the other pushes her
over. As soon as she leaves the bank, away she
shoots down the current, despite the shouts and exertions
of both. We were carried down so swiftly,