were respected by the contending parties, while
those of all others were sufferers. This was exactly
the spot for my head-quarters, as, like Sheik Achmet,
I wished to be on good terms with everybody,
and through him I should be able to obtain an
introduction to Mek Nimmur, whom I particularly
wished to visit, as I had heard that there never
was such a brigand. Accordingly, I pitched the
tents and formed' a camp upon the bank of the
river, about two hundred yards below the village
of Wat el Negur, and in a short time Sheik Achmet
and I became the greatest friends.
There is nothing more delightful when travelling
in a strange country, a thousand miles away from the
track of the wildest tourist, than to come upon the
footprint of a countryman; not the actual mark
of. his sole upon the sand, which the dust quickly
obscures, but to find imprinted deeply upon the
minds and recollections of the people, the good
character of a former traveller, that insures you a
favourable intoduction. Many years before I visited
Wat el Negur, Mr. Mansfield Parkyns, who has certainly
written the best book on Abyssinia that I
have ever read, passed through this country, having
visited Mek Nimmur, the father of the present Mek.
He was, I believe, the only European that had ever
been in Mek Nimmur’s territory, neither had his
footsteps been followed until my arrival. Mr.
Parkyns had left behind him what the Arabs call
a “ sweet name;” and as I happened to have his
book, “ Life in Abyssinia,” with me, I showed it to
the sheik as his production, and explained the illustrations,
&c.; at the same time I told him that
Mr. Parkyns had described his visit to Mek Nimmur,
of whom he had spoken very highly, and that I
wished to have an opportunity of telling the great
chief in person how much his good reception had
been appreciated. The good Sheik Achmet immediately
promised to present me to Mek Nimmur,
and wished particularly to know whether I intended
to write a book like Mr. Parkyns upon my return.
Should I do so, he requested me to mention his
name. I promised at once to do this trifling
favour; thus I have the greatest pleasure in certifying
that Sheik Achmet Wat el Negur is one of
the best and most agreeable fellows that I have
ever met in Africa; he does not keep an hotel,
or I would strongly recommend it to all travellers,
but his welcome is given gratis, with the warmest
hospitality.
The country for several miles upon the table-land
above Wat el Negur was highly cultivated, and
several thousand acres were planted with dhurra,
that was at this season in full grain, and nearly ripe.
Much sesame was grown for the manufacture of o il;
cotton was also cultivated, and the neighbourhood
was a fair example of the wonderful capabilities of
the entire country that was allowed to lie in idleness.
There was little rest for the inhabitants at this time,
.as the nights were spent in watching their extensive