CHAPTER XII.
ENTERING THE “ PLY COUNTRY.”
A descent into heat—Tea the best drink—Drinking generally—Rhinoceros
—Symptoms of another strike—Intense heat—Msingua river—Sum
“ Dar is the tsetse fly now, master!”—1The “ Fly Country” at last—
An odd hue and c r y — Mysterious words—Strange conduct of the
g u i d e s— Unravelling the mystery.
The country of the Makorikori, in which we had spent so
long and so eventful a time, was now left behind, and it
was not without satisfaction that we began the abrupt
descent to the foot-hills of the Makomwe mountains.
Night was rapidly darkening our way, and as water was
scarce, and the day had been a thorough “ scorcher,” we
pitched camp in a sag on the breast of the mountains
in proximity to a rocky gulch. The position was some
distance from water, and there was little pleasantness in
the general state of affairs, for we were short of provisions,
and for some days had been living upon unvarying meat.
I felt as though I had an absorbing craving for tea.
Living upon meat alone is a nauseating experience. What
a powerful effect is felt by any one who after acquiring a
strong predilection for, and becoming habituated to, any
special kind of diet or drink, is suddenly deprived of the
means of gratifying his appetite! I t seems as though the
article lost was the only thing that could make life bearable,
or even desirable.
Speaking only for myself, although it may he mentioned
that I have noticed the same with others similarly situated,
I say that as a thoroughly refreshing drink during atigue,
or for quenching violent thirst, HOT TEA is the best;
for I cannot acquiesce to the common belief m the desirability
of carrying bottles of cold tea, coffee, or any o er
beverage intended to be quaffed during the march, or when
hunting, while the body is heated. Experience has taught
not only in Africa, but in other lands where I have had
by no means an inconsiderable share of fatigue, that the
human system is never invigorated, not to speak of benefited,
by drinking anything cold or spirituous while the
body is exposed to the fiery rays of a tropical sun. I t is a
:good plan to do as the animals d o -w a it till sundown.
Then when cooled off, or even before cooling, a small dun ,
so long as it is warm, will refresh the system besides
assuaging the thirst. Provided any one begins to drink
drops of water or cold tea, or tipples, on something else,
nothing less than absolute immersion and partial asphyxiation
will check the craving, and that only temporarily.
I have heard people urging strongly the axiom that it is
well to follow the habits of the natives as the proper system
to adopt when travelling in their country. Had I followed
the practices of the Kaffirs in regard to their water libations
and ablutions I am positive that I never would have crossed
the Orange river. A Kaffir is a wonderful creature m that
way. He never thinks of what is beneficial or hurtiul.
Even when perspiration is flowing from every pore m his
skin, he will plunge headlong into .any cold and crystal
water that maybe near, disporting himself merrily m its
refreshing coolness, and gulping at the same time big
mouthsful of the welcome draught. This I have seen on
many occasi ans.
Eor some time before we camped, the roars of lions were