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218 CATHEDRAL SERVICE. [Chap. V I I .
the service, but it was harsh and uncouth psalmody,
and there Avas no instrument to accompany
or modify it. The bishop took his seat in
a separate pcAV close to the communion-table,
Avhich stood on a raised platform of some extent
Avith railings around it, and several benches within,
the occupants of Avhich immediately rose on the
bishop’s entering : he took no part in the service.
The governor of the island had also a large pew
to himself in the g a lle r y ; the ladies Avere all
arranged on one side of the church and the gentlemen
on the other : somehoAV or other Ave contrived
accidentally to get on the wrong side among the
ladies, Avhere, as no one molested us, we considered
ourselves priA’ileged to remain. Some of the elder
and middle-aged ladies were rather oddly dressed
in black clothes, Avith enormous AA'hite cockades or
plumes of linen nodding over their foreheads, Avhich,
on leaving the church, Avere so blown about by the
Avind as to be very troublesome to the wearers, who
AA'ere under the necessity of holding them down
lest they should be carried aAvay. On leaving the
church, our guide to the Geysers told ns that he
had been doing his best in the way of singing,
and hoped Ave noticed and approved of his performance.
In the evening Ave were invited to sup with Mr.
Knudtzon at the ncAV house which he had just
erected at Reikiavik, and which it was his intention
to inhabit the ensuing year on his return from Den-
Chap. V I I .] A SUPPER AT REIKIAVIK. 219
mark. This wooden structure will be by far the
most comfortable in the Avhole town, at least of
those I have had the opportunity of seeing : it was
built at Copenhagen, and seemed to be in cA'ery
part admirably fitted and furnished. We sat doAvn
about twenty, and a very agreeable party it w a s :
among the number was the governor of the island,
but the greater part Avere Danish merchants residing
at the capital. Some of the party favoured
the company with songs, and one Danish gentleman
was full of humour, and made those lauo-h
who understood his jokes, which Avas not my case.
In compliment to us Englishmen, the evening was
wound up Avith “ God save the King,” in Avhich
every one joined; and although few, if any of them,
knew the AVords, they all knew the tune, and the
effect was equally good. The supper was such a
one as we could scarcely have expected to sit down
to in Iceland— well dressed, and the meat of every
kind g o od ; among other rarities Avere some ducks
and geese split open and dried, Avhich Avere very
palatable. Every variety of wine was produced,
and there was no lack of champagne ; in fact, the
Danish merchants import every luxury from Copenhagen,
and I believe duty free.
We did not break up till a late hour—indeed, it
was past midnight— and I had made my arrangements
the moment all Avas over to ride to Havnefiord
in company with Mr. Thompson, Avho is the
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