I have been more particular in the
account of these baths, as their merits
are not generally known in England, and
I believe there is no place in Europe,
where douching can be practised with so
much advantage. There is water sufficient
to douche a thousand persons a day, if the
upper source were employed in the same
manner as the lower or sulphur spring.
The drives and walks in the neighbourhood
of Aix are very beautiful, but the town
itself has nothing to recommend it. The
French papers are taken in at the principal
coffee-houses ; and in the months of July
and August, there are assemblies once or
twice a week for cards and dancing. Besides
the chars, donkies may be hired, with convenient
ladies’saddles, the same as at Brighton.
The common people at Aix have less
simplicity of manners, and are more obtrusive,
than near the lake of Annecy, or in
the south of Savoy, as may naturally be expected
in a public and much-frequented
watering place.
The garrulity of the Savoyards was in
full activity in the streets from four o’clock
in the morning until eleven at night. Bakers
shops are the taverns of Savoy for the
labouring classes, unfortunately there was
one behind the house where we lodged,
and the incessant talking there, in addition
to the noises from the street, made us
frequently regret our removal from the
quietude of Chateau Duing.
The public dinner at La Poste was announced
at half past one, and we supped at
about half past eight. The table was generally
well provided, particularly with excellent
fish from the Lake of Bourget. The
company, amounting to about thirty, consisted
of French, chiefly from the vicinity
of Lyons, Valence, and Grenoble, a few
Swiss, some natives of Savoy; two English
families of ladies, and ourselves. Our
number was often increased by occasional
visitors, as Aix lies on the post-road from
Geneva to Chamberry. During meals our
ears were not annoyed by bad music, as
is frequently the case in watering-places ;
but we had no lack of conversation. A
gentleman from Neufchatel, whosatnear the
head of the table, and whom I at first mistook
for an Englishman, both from his appearance
and tone of voice, took the lead.
Fortunately for the company, he was a
man of sound sense and much information.
k-'"
V O L . I . K