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GREAT EGG HARBOUR.
SOME years ago, after having spent the spring in observing the habits
of the migratory warblers and other land birds, which arrived in vast
numbers in the vicinity of Camden in New Jersey, I prepared to visit
the sea shores of that State, for the purpose of making myself acquainted
with their feathered inhabitants. June had commenced, the weather was
pleasant, and the country seemed to smile in the prospect of bright 'days
and gentle gales. Fishermen gunners passed daily between Philadelphia
and the various small sea-ports, with Jersey wagons, laden with fish,
fowls and other provisions, or with such articles as were required by the
families of those hardy boatmen ; and I bargained with one of them to
take myself and my baggage to Great Egg Harbour.
One afternoon, about sunset, the vehicle halted at my lodgings, and
the conductor intimated that he was anxious to proceed as quickly as
possible. A trunk, a couple of guns, and such other articles as are found
necessary by persons whose pursuits are similar to mine, were immediately
thrust into the wagon, and were followed by their owner. The
conductor whistled to his steeds and off we went at a round pace over the
loose and deep sand that in almost every part of this State forms the basis
of the roads. After a while we overtook a whole caravan of similar vehicles
moving in the same direction, and when we got near them our
horses slackened their pace to a regular walk, the driver leaped from his
seat, I followed his example, and we presently found ourselves in the
midst of a group of merry wagoners, relating their adventures of the
week, it being now Saturday night. One gave intimation of the number of
" Sheep-heads" he had taken to town, another spoke of the Curlews which
vet remained on the sands, and a third boasted of having gathered so
many dozens of Marsh Hen's eggs. I inquired if the Fish Hawks were
plentiful near Great Egg Harbour, and was answered by an elderly man,
who with a laugh asked if I had ever seen the " Weak fish11 along the coast
without the bird in question. Not knowing the animal he had named, I
confessed my ignorance, when the whole party burst into a loud laugh,
in which, there being nothing better for it, I joined.
About midnight the caravan reached a half-way house, where we
rested a while. Several roads diverged from this spot, and the wagons
GREAT EGG HARBOUR. 607
separated, one only keeping us company. The night was dark and
gloomy, but the sand of the road indicated our course very distinctly.
Suddenly the gallopping of horses struck my ear, and on looking back
we perceived that our wagon must in an instant be in imminent danger.
The driver leaped off, and drew his steeds aside, barely in time to allow
the runaways to pass without injuring us. Off they went at full speed,
and not long after their owner came up panting, and informed us that they
had suddenly taken fright at some noise proceeding from the woods, but
hoped they would soon stop. Immediately after we heard a crash ; then
for a few moments all was silent; but the neighing of the horses presently
assured us that they had broken loose. On reaching the spot, we found
the wagon upset, and a few yards farther on were the horses quietly
browsing by the road side.
The first dawn of morn in the Jerseys in the month of June, is worthy
of a better description than I can furnish, and therefore I shall only say
that the moment the sunbeams blazed over the horizon, the loud and
mellow notes of the Meadow Lark saluted our ears. On each side of the
road were open woods, on the tallest trees of which I observed at intervals
the nest of a Fish Hawk, far above which the white-breasted bird
slowly winged its way, as it commenced its early journey to the sea, the
odour of which filled me with delight. In half an hour more, we were
in the centre of Great Egg Harbour.
There I had the good fortune to be received into the house of a
thorough bred fisherman-gunner, who besides owning a comfortable cot
only a few hundred yards from the shore, had an excellent woman for a
wife, and a little daughter as playful as a kitten, though as wild as a seagull.
In less than half an hour, I was quite at home, and the rest of the
day was spent in devotion.
Oysters, though reckoned out of season at this period, are as good as
ever when fresh from their beds, and my first meal was of some as large
and white as any I have eaten. The sight of them placed before nic on
a clean table, with an honest and industrious family in my company,
never failed to afford more pleasure than the most sumptuous fare under
different circumstances; and our conversation being simple and harmless,
gaiety shone in every face. As we became better acquainted, I had to
answer several questions relative to the object of my visit. The goodman
rubbed his hands with joy as I spoke of shooting and fishing, and
of-long excursions through the swamps and marshes around.