586 LABRADOR.
and I went with one or other of the parties according to circumstances,
although it was by no means my custom to do so regularly, as I had
abundance of work on hand in the vessel.
The return of my young companions and the sailors was always
looked for with anxiety. On getting on board, they opened their budgets,
and laid their contents on the deck, amid much merriment, those
who had procured most specimens being laughed at by those who had
obtained the rarest, and the former joking the latter in return. A substantial
meal always awaited them, and fortunate we were in having a
capital cook, although he was a little too fond of the bottle.
Our " fourth of July1' was kept sacred, and every Saturday night the
toast of " wives and sweethearts11 was the first given, " parents and friends1'
the last. Never was there a more merry set. Some with the violin and
flute accompanied the voices of the rest, and few moments were spent in
idleness. Before a month had elapsed, the spoils of many a fine bird
hung around the hold; shrubs and flowers were in the press, and I had
several drawings finished, some of which you have seen, and of which I
hope you will ere long see the remainder. Large jars were filling apace
with the bodies of rare birds, fishes, quadrupeds, and reptiles, as well as
molluscous animals. We had several pets too, Gulls, Cormorants, Guillemots,
Puffins, Hawks, and a Raven. In some of the harbours, curious
fishes were hooked in our sight, so clear was the water.
We found that camping out at night was extremely uncomfortable,
on account of the annoyance caused by flies and musquitoes, which attacked
the hunters in swarms at all times, but more especially when they
lay down, unless they enveloped themselves in thick smoke, which is not
much more pleasant. Once when camping, the weather became very bad^
and the party was twenty miles distant from Whapatiguan as night
threw her mantle over the earth. The rain fell in torrents, the north-east
wind blew furiously, and the air was extremely cold. The oars of the
boats were fixed so as to support some blankets, and a small fire was with
difficulty kindled, on the embers of which a scanty meal was cooked. How
different from a camp on the shores of the Mississippi, where wood is
abundant, and the air generally not lacking heat, where musquitoes, although
plentiful enough, are not accompanied by carraboo flies, and
where the barkings of a joyful squirrel, or the notes of the Barred Owl,
that grave buffoon of our western woods, never fail to gladden the camper
as he cuts to the right and left such branches and canes as most easily
LABRADOR. 587
supply materials for forming a lodging for the night! On the coast of
Labrador there are no such things; granite and green moss are spread
around, silence like that of the grave envelopes all, and when night has
closed the dreary scene from your sight, the wolves, attracted by the
scent of the remains of your scanty repast, gather around you. Cowards
as they are, they dare not venture on a charge; but their howlings effectually
banish sleep. You must almost roast your feet to keep them
warm, while your head and shoulders are chilled by the blast. When
morning comes, she smiles not on you with rosy cheeks, but appears
muffled in a grey mantle of cold mist, which shews you that there is no
prospect of a fine day. The object of the expedition, which was to procure
some Owls that had been observed there by day, was entirely frustrated.
At early dawn, the party rose stiffened and dispirited, and glad
were they to betake themselves to their boats, and return to their floating
home.
Before we left Labrador, several of my young friends began to feel
the want of suitable clothing. The sailors1 ever-tailoring system was, believe
me, fairly put to the test. Patches of various colours ornamented
knees and elbows; our boots were worn out; our greasy garments and
battered hats were in harmony with our tanned and weather-beaten faces;
and, had you met with us, you might have taken us for a squad of wretched
vagrants ; but we were joyous in the expectation of a speedy return,
and exulted at the thoughts of our success.
As the chill blast that precedes the winter's tempest thickened the fogs
on the hills and ruffled the dark waters, each successive day saw us more
anxious to leave the dreary wilderness of grim rocks and desolate mossclad
valleys. Unfavourable winds prevented us for a while from spreading
our white sails; but at last one fair morning smiled on the wintry
world, the Ripley was towed from the harbour, her tackle trimmed, and
as we bounded over the billows, we turned our eyes toward the wilds of
Labrador, and heartily bade them farewell for ever !