412 REMINISCENCES OF TRAVEL
supplies, so that a messenger can be despatched to obtain
what is lacking. So many delays occur in getting
started, that the old hand never hopes to get far the
first day, and makes early for camp, to start afresh
in earnest on the morrow. It is only thus that a proper
inspection is practicable, with everything at last in use—
a sort of final full-dress rehearsal,— on which much of
the future success of the journey depends.
Some hire, some buy, mules and horses, or even camels
and donkeys, and now comes the re-adjustment of loads
and saddles, with the task of apportioning
Transport and am o n g the motley crew of servants.
These will have been picked up in all directions,
and are seldom to be relied on, for, sad to relate,
nothing corrupts their morals like working for Europeans.
It therefore happens, not infrequently, that mounts, and
even servants, have to be changed at this moment, when
some little insight has been obtained into tricks and
failings. Nothing seems more hopeless than the confusion
presented on such an occasion, unless most practically
supervised, but by degrees things “ arrange themselves,”
and the chances are that by the time night falls
a marvellous calm will have succeeded, and whatever
the real state of affairs, the supper works magic.
The luxurious way to travel is to have a separate outfit
for lunch, so that while a hasty breakfast is being
accomplished amid the bustle of re-packing,
A Continuous lunch and attendants can ride on ahead
r'tcmc.
to some shady spot, there to prepare the first
square meal of the day, with rugs and cushions for the
siesta to follow. Starting at sunrise, by nine or ten,
just when in summer it begins to grow hot, the best
part of the /lay’s work is done, and conscience permits
of rest till three or four, when, after afternoon tea, a
fresh start is made for the spot at which the camp has
413
been pitched, those responsible for it having halted for
a short time only at noon. The long stay made by their
employers affords time for reading or sketching or sport,
according to taste, and except when spent perforce upon
a barren and shadeless plain, is by no means the least
pleasant part of what becomes a continuous picnic. In
this sort of thing an experienced guide is essential, and
the rate of progress must be sacrificed to pleasure.
The distance thus travelled will seldom reach five-and-
twenty miles a day, whereas the ordinary caravan rate
is about thirty or thirty-five.
Nothing is more deceptive and annoying than the
Moorish idea of distance. The Scotch “ mile-and-a-bittock ”
is not to be named beside the Moorish sub- A F g l
hlyah or “ morning’s ride,’ and kareeb, which Distances.
in English means “ near,” in the mouth of a
Moor means anything under half a day s ride. Frequently
the state of the country requires that a certain point be
reached before camping— whether on account of lawlessness
or lack of provision,-and the last hours are apt
to grow remarkably tedious, although it is surprising
what a pace the animals will often make when the
sun goes down, and the halting-place is supposed to
be near.
Unless this be at a village or governors house, all
the stores that are carried will come into use, but while
the country-folk supply only eggs and chicken, p/aces
butter and milk, and grain for the steeds, official
hospitality furnishes all that the traveller needs, down
to firing and candles. Ushered into the bare-walled guestroom,
which his servants forthwith proceed to clean out
and furnish, the traveller is refreshed by green tea, a
pound or so of which is brought in with loaves of sugar
and packets of candles, samovar and tray complete.
Later in the evening come stews and other dishes for