T R A V E L S THROUGH
RRTÜRNING through Hall, I again croffcd the Inn, and PAFL"I;D by the hot baths of
Egerdach, which are midway between that city and Infprvick. I then continued my
route bcJow the caRSe of Ambras, which I propofed vifiting the next morning.
ALTHOUtin my cxcurfion to the cafile was not attended with a degree of fatisfaÖion
equal to what I experienced at the fait mines, 1 muft not omit fome particulars, as it
certainly contains many things worUi notice. I quitted Infpruck early the next morning,
and took the road by which I entered the city in dcfcending the Brenner, and direfted ray
courfe towards the convent of Wilteau (which I have already defcrihed). I paffed it on the
left, and followed a road at tlic foot of a charming hill, which is the bafe of the high
chain of the Brenner, covered with firs to the fummit: I had not gone far, when I heard
a tremendous noife rcfembling a water-fall, which incrcafed confiderably as I approached
the caftle: but, not feeing the leaft appearance of a river, I could not account for the
violent guQ^ of water which I now heard perfeftly d i f t ind; till, proceeding round a fmall
rock, which projeaed into the plain, where I then was, I perceived a moft beautiful
cafcade, formed by the waters of the Sill, which, precipitating themfelves with great
rapidity from the fummit of huge rocks, through thick tufts of firs and larch trees (in
which that country abounds) prefentcd a magnificent and pleafing objed. From thence
I foon reached the fbot of a fmall hill, on which is built the caftle of Amras, or Ambras.
This edifice, which is at no great diftance from Infpruck, was formerly the refidence of
the Archdukes of Auftria. It is the opinion of feveral writers, that it was built by the
Archduke Ferdinand j but it is without doubt of much greater antiquity; fince it is
proved that, in 1138, Henry, Duke of Bavaria, took it from Frederick, Duke of Swabia,
his brother-in-law, by force of arms.
THIS caftle is extenfive, and kept in good repair by the prefent Archdukes. It contains
feveral valuable and curious antiquities. There is a beautiful hall, which ferves as
an armoiuy: it being a repofitory for the different kinds of arms made.ufe of fince the
time of the Romans, either in tlieir battles or tournaments. In the fame hall are likewife
upwards of two hundred horfes, curiouily carved in wood, as large as life, with
their Knights equipped in armour from head to foot, reprefenting their greateft heroes
for more than fixteen centuries. Their portraits, arms, arid-trophies are alfo-fliewn.
I WILL not attempt to enter into a minute defcription of the great variety of curiofities
contained in the caftle, as it would carry me too far. I muft however juft notice, that
there are feveral cabinets, arranged with care and tafte, confifting of medals, gems,
foffils, lliells, birds, &c. The paintings are alfo numerous, fo that I particularly recommend
the caftle of Ambras to the infpedion of either the naturalift or artift.
BEFORE I quit Infpruck, I muft not omit giving A defcription of the valley of Inn, in
which that city is built. It forms two divifions of the county, viz. Upper and Lower
Inn J
T H E RH^TIAN ALPS. 73
I n n ; and it extends from north-caft to fouth-weft. This valley is one of the moft
extenfive, beft cultivated, and populous of the Alps. It contains tliree hundred and
twenty villages and hamlets, befides a number of caftles and convents. It produces corn,
fait, wood, and game, in great abundance. The foil is favourable to the culture of flax
and hops. The inhabitants breed vaft quantities of cattle. Minerals of different forts
are found in feveral places.
THE river Inn, or ^nns , from which it derives its name, flows in the center of the
valley for upwards of thirty miles. It takes its fource at tlie foot of mount St. Jule, in
the country of the Grifons, and throws itfelf into the Danube, near Paffean.
THE banks of this river are fo fertile, and its views fo pidturefque, that they recal
the idea of the enchanting borders of the Brenta in the environs of Padua. In many
places thefe are liowevcr fuperior; for the beauties of nature here appear with more
majefty and grandeur, owing to that high and tremendous chain of rocky mountains
which ferves to limit the valley. Its width, in many parts, is from four to five miles j
in others it is fo contraded that there is fcarcely room for more than the bed of the
river which meanders between a number of hills, highly cultivated and wooded, that
appear the firft ftep towards the fiipenor chain nf mniTntaine.
ON the fummit of many of thefe hills are fmail villages, moft agreeably fituated,
whofe fteeples, covered with tin, fhine through the tufts of trees, forming a pleafing
contraft with the fable hue of the hill: and the foft vapour which covered tlie bottom
of the valley (particularly at fun-fet), prefented to the eye a moft finiihed landfcape,
worthy the pencil of Claude Lorraine.
AT other times, the fcene changing, offered unexpededly a view of the ruins of an
ancient caftle, feen in the back ground, on the edge of huge rocks j the bafe of which
was concealed by firs and larch trees, whitened by the vapour iffuirig from a cafcade
or a torrent, precipitating down the fummit of the neighbouring mountains. A ftriking
inftance of tlie inftability of liuman produdions. Our nobleft works are liable to decay;
whilft thofe of nature feem daily to regenerate and refume freih beauty.
I SHALL always recollecS with pleafure and fatisfaiSion an excurfion I made with my
inn-kceper's fon, a decent, amiable young man, and well informed in lithology. He had
Ihewn me his colleftion, which was extenfive ajid well chofen, confifting of every fpccies
of marble of that country, as likcwife cryftals and vitrefcent ftones, found in the vicinity
of the Glaciers.
His propofal was for me to accompany him to a fmall country houfc belonging to his
father, fituated on a hill which commanded the greateft part of the valley, and from
which the view of the adjacent country was extenfive. I accepted his offer with
pleafure, and determined on going the day preceding my departure,
T H. iving