breakfast a t. leisure in the bouse, or, if more agreeable, in the
boat.
Though it may be truly said .that this is a very convenient, and
even pleasant method of travelling, yet it is to be regretted that it
affords less opportunity of seeing the. state of the country,, and the
improvements of cultivation,-than could t be .had .in i travelling by
land.
Mr. S ..... s had a fine barge, with a large and elegant cabin well
stored with all sorts of provisions and ail the comforts of life-; it'-was
rowed by eight stout negroes, and as the tide flowed eariy*!« the
morning, we began our Journey with the rising of the sun. Qn the
right-side of the river Surinam, from Paramaribo to Fort Amsterdam,
we counted the buildings belonging to six plantations^ but
the land on the left side, after passing Fort-Zeland, is divided into
smaller portions,-generally consisting of country houses and pleasure
grounds belonging to. the citizens.- a
i We stopped at Fort Amsterdam, to take a pleasant walk beyond
the fort, and to give the negroes an opportunity of refreshing
themselves; and this gives- me; the pleasing occasion of. informing
you, that the custom of making- them row, against tide is: now
abolished, and as the stages are so short from breakfast to dinner,
and from thence to the plantation fixed upon for resting all night,
the negroes seem not' to be fatigued, but sing together all the-way,
keeping time with their oars; sometimes one negro sings a line,
and beats the water with his oar in a particular manner, which
gives a signal for marking the time, whilst the other rowers repeat
the line in a chorus.
From Fort Amsterdam we entered the river Commewyne, which
is estimated to be about three quarters of a mile wide; the banks of
this river, though later cultivated than those of the river Surinam,
are in a more flourishing condition, and as it runs parallel with the
§ea coasts they enjoy the benefit of the sea breezes, and are reckoned
■ M i l :
more healthy.-- Coffee is mostly planted on jthe estates .which lie
jon..the.side of|this, rivers and as its preparation requires many
buildings,- the plantations have*, a . fine appearance. Most of
them have also large and elegant dwelling houses, which indicate
that the ; planters who built them originally intended to remain
befe-i-wfiih- *#teir:> fa milies; bu t most of- them . are at present -in
Europe, whfie-,the. director, or, as he is called,-.the. Overseer, lodges
in one or two rooms, and the rest ; of the building falls into
ruins.
About sixteen.miles from the mouth of the Commewyne at Som-
melsdyke thej river divides into tvfeoibranches,: Ae«one, called the
Upper Commewyne, lies to the south, and its banks are said
to be as fertile as those of tihe lalrge river Commewyne ; the. second
«aUd ii® banks are so-fertil&that tbeinha-
bitants ofiSurinam look.upon this part as oneiof the principal sources
from which flo#ritfie richesi oftthe'.ooJoay. In ascending, this river
to its .source it runs first in many-serpentine windings almost'.parallel
with the sea coast, with very rich plantations on both sides of i t ;
but hrghter.up. the river-turns tó the south, and approaches to the
great rives Marawini, and in former times there have been along
that part of the Cottica very considerable plantations, but they, were
all destroyed by the revolted. negroes/particularly about, thé .year
Irl'ïSj of which Gapt. Stedmah has given-a full narrative. I have
beep assured by'.several, directors who have, visited that part of
the country,:that the s.oU there i& ope ofthe best in the colony* and
particularly excellent for coffee; and being arising ground, its situation
fis. reckoned very, salubrious; but it cannot for the present be
inhabited -by Europeans, as* itfis the favourite refuge of the bush
negroes,, or deserters, and being in the vicinitytof the Marawini,
they can immediately on an apprehension of. being attacked by the
people from, Surinam, cross over into the country of another nation ;