beries, which, though hotter than the temperature on
board ship, were exquisitely refreshing and delightful
Here, for some days, dances, picnics, rides, walks about
the picturesque ravines, and cricket-matches, formed
the chief occupation. A farewell waltz was danced on
board ship, and the deck was like a brilliant May-day,
crowded with ladies wearing gay sashes inscribed with
the name of our good ship Forte. Our next fête
was on the Queen's birthday, when the poop was gracefully
hung round with large silken colours, and the
Admiral gave a bountiful entertainment. The crossing
of the Line was duly commemorated in the old
nautical style, with douche baths, and effective applications
of steam-hose in the hands of joyous young
middies.
The lottery as to the hour of arrival at Rio de
Janeiro was won by the only lady on board ; and on
entering the magnificent bay—a most lovely sight—
we were saluted by a perfect storm of cannon and
music from the Brazilian, French, and American men-
of-war lying off the town. On landing, the mule
carriages, the dingy sallow look of the people, the
dazzling displays of jewellery, and the artificial flowers
made from the feathers of gaily-plumaged birds, particularly
struck us ; and a drive to the botanical gardens
to see the avenue of betel-palms, and a walk to
the neighbouring woods, deepened the interest of Rio.
As cholera raged in the town, several parties took
steamer to the head of the bay, passing richly-foliaged
islands in their course. Hence, forty miles of rail,
through swamp and forest, brought us to the foot of
mountains, which we ascended in omnibuses drawn
by four mules, passing on the way others, handsome
animals, laden with bales of goods for the interior.
The drive was most interesting, every curve in the
Simplon-like road unfolding fresh beauties. Tree-
ferns, the papau, and air-plants of every colour,
clothed the hill-sides. At dusk we reached Petro-
polis, a hill sanatorium, where we remained two or
three days, enjoying its many natural beauties and
the fine cool air.
Embarking again at Rio, the day after we left shore
our attention was arrested by the cry of “ Man overboard
! ” The life-buoy was slipped and the cutter
lowered. We saw the poor fellow struggling with the
buoy, and then disappearing; but he was picked up,
and the ship stood on her course again, the whole taking
place in less time than I have taken in mentioning
the fact. Oddly enough, the hero of the scene got a
fortnight’s salt-water grog for having been in some
forbidden place when the accident occurred. During
the night of the 22d June, the tramping, rushing to
and fro, and shouting of commands on deck, told there
was a storm, and sleep was impossible. Sixteen hours
afterwards, the sea still raging in striking magnificence,
and the ship running along at eleven knots, the cry
was again heard “ Man overboard! ” and every one
sprang to his feet. Such was the discipline that, from
the time I first heard the alarm till I saw the boat
lowered in charge of two of the officers, Wilkinson and
G-ye, only two minutes elapsed. The man is seen
clinging to the buoy; in the dusk of evening he is lost
sight o f; the boat also disappears; the suspense is
painful; “ bum a blue light; ” the boat nears the ship ;
every one holds his breath, till at length the simple
words, “ All right, s ir!” convey joy and gladness to