40 STREETS AND
The streets of Geneva generally feel
cold, as from tlie height of the houses the
sun’s rays rarely shine into them ; and as
these rays are far more powerful here in
the winter months, at liiid-day, than in
England : when you enter the streets, on
returning from the country, a sensation is
felt like that of descending from a warm
atmosphere into a cold vault. To this
sudden change may, I think, be partly
attributed the disorders in the teeth, so
prevalent at Geneva ; but the proximity of
the city to such a large extent of fresh
water, is supposed to be the principal cause
of this malady. Part of th e city is built
on a level with the lake, and the Rhone
passes through it, separating the parish of
St. Gervaise from the main city. The
river is crossed by four wooden bridges.
The Rhone divides into two branches,
which soon unite again, thus forming a
small island, over which you pass in going
to St. Gervaise. In this island, the earthquake,
which shook Geneva while we were
there, was most forcibly felt. The upper
part of the city is situated about 100 feet
above the lake ; it is here that the cathedral
of St. Pierre, and the houses of the
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FORTIFICATIONS. 41
more opulent and ancient families are
situated, the lower streets being occupied
by tradesmen and artizans. This division
o f the city into upper and lower, is
supposed to have perpetuated the strong
feelings of aristocratical distinctions, which
have caused so many political dissentions
among the citizens. Geneva has only
three gates, so that you are obliged to traverse
a great part of the town to go into
the country. The gates are shut at an
early hour, after which a trifling toll is paid
on passing through ; and at eleven o’clock
they are finally closed for the night, and
no one can pass without a written order
from the commander of the garrison.
Formerly the gates were closed at an
earlier hour. The readers of Rousseau’s
Confessions will remember in what affecting
language he describes his agony of mind,
when a boy, on seeing the draw-bridge
raised as he was returning in haste from
a truant excursion into the country. The
inexorable guard refused his entrance ; he
slept without the walls, and being afraid to
return to his master, he threw himself, a
friendless fugitive, upon the world. To
such a trifling event may be ascribed the