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It was nearly dark before we descended
into the valley of Lauterbrun, though we
had seen it immediately below us during a
great part of the afternoon. We remained
in this beautiful valley nearly a week. The
cascade of the Staubach, for which it is most
commonly visited, is the least interesting
of all the objects it contains ; for though it
falls in a considerable stream, from the
height of 900 feet, the water is broken into
drops before it reaches the ground, and is
scarcely seen when you are near ; but at
a distance it looks like a deep column of
smoke. Staubach signifies the river of
dust, and it is not inaptly named.
While here, I visited a mine of argentiferous
lead ore, in the upper end of the
valley : it is not at present worked. There
is a mountain on the west side of the
valley, which presents some singular illusions
with respect to stratification.—See
Appendix.
The valley of Lauterbrun, besides the
magnificence of its mountain scenery, is
particularly distinguished by the beautiful
woods which adorn its sides, and still more
by the rich deep verdure of its fields and
meadows, that forms a very striking contrast
to the brilliant whiteness of the snow-clad
Alps above. From this contrast of the
seasons, the Bernese Alps have been called
“ the summer palaces of the God of
Winter.”
The landlord of the inn at Lauterbrun,
resides there only in the summer months,
for the accommodation of tourists ; he is
regarded as a man of fortune in this part
of Switzerland, and both he and his wife
are very respectable characters. A circumstance
occurred while we were there,
which may teach travellers not to be
over hasty in abusing the people o f the
country. An English gentleman, with his
niece, drove up to the inn, and alighted,
but did not enter, or leave the char in
charge to any one, while they proceeded
up the valley. After returning from the
Staubach, the lady said she had lost a
valuable shawl, which was left in the c h a r;
on this her uncle began to abuse the people
of the inn, calling them voleurs, &c.
The landlord was gone to Interlaken, but
his wife immediately ordered her servants
to bring in the gentleman’s box-coat and
whip, which she said should not be returned
until he had given satisfaction before a