shrubs were to be seen. Thistles were still present, but in very
small numbers, and indeed there was little to meet the eye but
a wide expanse of grass-land dotted here and there with herds
of oxen, sheep, and horses (which seemed in very small proportion
to the acreage;, and exhibiting, at distances of about
two miles apart, small one-storied huts. For ploughing and
other agricultural work, oxen seemed to be used, to the exclusion
of horses ; which is all the more strange, as the latter here exist
in great abundance, and are so cheap as to create that equestrian
peasantry which to a European visitor is, I think, the most striking
characteristic of the country.
As one of the up-trains passed by us at the station of Joashim
Suarez, we noticed several trucks piled up with ox skulls and
other bones, and on enquiry ascertained that they were for
exportation to England, to be used in sugar-refining factories:
the bones were piled up so high on the trucks as to tower
above the engine, so that as the train approached us end-on,
they formed a ghastly sort of figure-head.
A t Santa Lucia the train stopped half an hour for refreshments,
and all hands adjourned to an hotel close by the railway
station, where a good breakfast, consisting of many courses
(including beefsteak and potatoes), was satisfactorily disposed of.
The charge for this repast was moderate, being only six reals=
3s. 6d. a head.
Of birds a great many were to be seen as we travelled along.
Looking forward from the carriage windows, we could see ground
doves of a dull slate colour, rising from the track, and sheering
off to either side in great flocks, as the train advanced. A
species of lapwing, with bluish-grey plumage barred with white
across the wings, and displaying a pair of long red legs, kept
us continually alive to its presence by its harsh double cry.
Partridges were also abundant. These birds are strictly preserved
all over Uruguay, and during the breeding season, from September
to March, no shooting of any kind is allowed without special
permission. We saw one flock of ostriches stalking about
unconcernedly among the cattle. We were subsequently told
that the ostriches in this district were all allowed to run wild,
the value of the feathers not repaying the cost of farming.
Of deer, the largest indigenous mammal, we saw only one
individual, browsing quietly among a herd of cattle. They are
allowed to come or go as they please, not being sought after
or utilized by the inhabitants.
On arriving at Durazno we were most hospitably received and
entertained by Mr. Ware, the engineer of the railway, under
whose guidance we inspected the sights of this dilapidated
country town, and then proceeded to explore the banks of the
river Yi, a tributary of the Rio Negro, where a great variety
of animal life was to be seen. There was here a large lagoon
bordered with low bushes, a favourite haunt of the largest
living rodent, the capybara or “ carpincho,” as the natives
call it, and also largely stocked with birds. Snipe and dottrel
were here so tame as to allow one to approach within a few
yards of them. In the course of the day we had the good
fortune to meet a Mr. Edye, an Englishman, who, during thirteen
years’ residence in the Plate, had acquired a considerable insight
into the natural history of the country. He told us that a great
variety of birds inhabit the low bushes of the “ Monte ” (as
they call the shallow valley of the river), including three species
of the cardinal, one humming bird, the calandria or South
American nightingale, etc. With reference to the tucutuco
{Ctenomys), he assured us, contrary to the opinion expressed by
Dr. Darwin, in his “ Journal of a Naturalist,” as to the animals
never coming to the surface, that the little rodents were commonly
to be seen near their holes about the time of dusk, and that
they invariably retreated to the burrows on the near approach
of a human being. He considered it almost impossible to catch
them, but had no doubt about their habit of coming to the
surface. As we strolled along the river banks, we saw and
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