dreary desert. A t 10 we arrived at the town, which rises like a little amphitheatre: it is mud walled, and has a high square whitewashed minaret to its principal Mosque. All the male population came out to salute the Sultan; and I observed that at this place the change of colour began, the people here being Mulattoes. I remarked too, that the greater part of their muskets had matchlocks, and that not above one in five went off. The houses appear in neat order, but very low ; and the walls are built in an irregular, but strong manner, of mud. Mr. Kitchie made the latitude of Sebha 27° S' 8" north. May 1 st.—The Sultan, after many disputes respecting money matters, set off with us at 5. 50. P. M. the camels having departed some hours sooner. Our road, after passing the palms, was still, as it had lately been, over a gravelly plain, having at intervals large black detached stones lying on it. A t midnight the horsemen stopped, and at 1 A. M. the camels came up. We lay this night on a low plain, amongst some small sand hills, which were quite barren. As the camels arrived so late, there was great confusion in unloading them; and the men were too much occupied to pay any attention to the ladies in the Shiblias. Fatma, finding no helping hand near to assist her, boldly attempted to uncoach herself; but the exertion, owing to her excessive fat, caused her to fall, or rather roll off the camel, to the great amusement of the Arabs. May 2nd.—A t 6. 45. proceeded on our way, and at 12 came into a wadey, having many palm bushes thickly growing about. A heavy sand wind was blowing, and the sun was quite obscured by it. My horse, taking fright at some object which he saw but indistinctly, reared up, and fell back with me under him. Happily, I only received a severe contusion on the arm. At 1. 30. P.M. we arrived at Ghroodwa, q jjy , a miserable collection of mud huts, containing about fifty people, who appeared a ragged drunken set, as the immense number of tapped palm trees testified. From the ruins of some large mud edifices, this place seems to have once been of more importance. The palms, which extend for ten or fifteen miles east and west, are the property of the Sultan, and appear in worse condition than any we have seen. May 3rd. A t 6. SO. A. M. we left Ghroodwa, and again entered on a barren stony plain ; at 12 passed a small wadey called Wad el nimmel, JAJJU),, (or the valley of ants), from the immense number of those insects, of a beautiful pink colour, which are found there. At 6. 40. P. M. we cleared this dreary waste, and entered on a sandy plain, which was in many places thickly encrusted with salt. A few scattered palms, and some ill built and ruined huts, appeared at intervals, betokening the greatest wretchedness. A t 8 reached a few buildings of this description, called Dgleim, y jlh A t 11 the camels arrived. The inhabitants from all the neighbouring villages had assembled here ; and I really believe more powder was expended at this place, than at any other we had passed through, although their muskets could not have amounted altogether to more than fifty. Tjie Sultan repeatedly called out, “ Enough, Enough!” but the natives only answered by fresh discharges, and exclaiming, “ We have plenty of powder.” As I was walking across the little space in which they were exercising, one of the shooters, to do me honour, fired his piece at my legs, which being bare, received above a dozen coarse grains, like small shot. I bled a little, which quite frightened the man, lest he should be discovered. I, however, made light of it, and rubbed myself with salt and water. The dancing ladies were indefatigable; and when I went to sleep at midnight, were making as much noise, and were as active as ever. Mr. Ritchie’s horse had for the last four or five days
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