CHAPTER Eg JOURNEY FROM T R IP O L I TO MORZOUK. Preparations for their departure, in company with Mohammed el Mukni—Encampment in the Mountains of Terhoona, and at the Wells of Melghra—Arrival at Benioleed i -> ^Interview with the Wife of the Sheikh, of the Kaillc— Their Christian Friends return to Tripoli—Punishment of an Arab for Theft—Journey over the Desert— Remains of a Roman Castle—Continuation of the Journey, until their Arrival at Sockna—Entry into that City—Description of it—Manner of raising the Tribute Money—Accompany the Sultan’s Son to Hoon and Wadan, to receive the Taxes —Account of those Places—eRetum to Sockna—Leave Sockna—Singular Custom imposed on Travellers in passing the Soudah Mountains—Arrival at Nuiilai— Clear the Soudah Mountains—And travel over the gravelly Plain, through the Pass of Kenair, to the Well of Om el-Abeed—Visit the Towns of Zeighan and Samnoo, famed for their Maraboots—Encamp at Temenhint—Arrival at Sebha, where the Black Population commences—Pass on to Ghroodwa—Entry to Mor- zouk, the Capital of Fezzan. O n the 22d March, 1819, after repeated delays, every thing being at length in readiness for our departure, the camels, twenty-two in number, arrived, and carried our goods to the Desert beyond the Meshea, where Mr. Ritchie preferring to remain in the town, Belford, and myself, pitched our tent, in order to keep watch over the goods. Our Kaffl6 increased much this day ; many Negroes, who had obtained their freedom, and were returning to their native countries, fixed their little triangles of sticks, and a mat or carpet, close to us, whilst I amused myself in marking our goods, so that each camel-man might be enabled to know his own charge, and thus avoid mistakes or confusion. 23d March. -I went back into the town, and found that Mukni was not to join us until the morrow ; by which delay, we obtained time to furnish ourselves with many necessaries, which we had before forgotten to provide. 24th March.vi*Mukni did not arrive'this day ; but his two N e gresses and household slaves came out and pitched their tents. These women were mounted on camels, in a kind of litter, called Shiblia which is a light frame of wood, covered with scarlet doth, so arranged, as to prevent the person in the inside from being seen. One of them had been twice to the Niger with Mukni, and was named Zaitoon ^yuj or olive tree ; the other was the mother of his youngest child, and was called Zeman Donya, ¡¡g i time of the world. All was confusion this day ; and the varied heaps of goods, camels, saddles, and animals, which ■ were scattered about, presented a very lively scene. As I sat in our tent, writing a letter, some Arabs came in, and seemed to find much amusement in seeing me write from left to right; but, when I told them my letter was addressed to a Female, their astonishment knew no bounds ; and they laughed heartily at the idea, that it was possible for a woman to be capable of reading. Colonel Warrington’s eldest son came to spend the evening with us. March 25th.—I went into the town, and took leave of all my Christian friends. A t eight A. M. the kaffl6, consisting of about two hundred men, and the same number of camels, set off. We followed them, and pitched our tents, to rest for the night, on the desert, near a well and a few palm trees. After dark, Mr. Ritchie, accompanied by our friends, Dr. Dickson, and Messrs. Carstensen, arrived. We amused ourselves in visiting little parties of the i 2
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