for the night amongst some stunted bushes. We made this day, south 40° east, thirty miles. Monday, 15th February.—At four A. M. made on for Benio- leed. We passed occasionally over mountains and gravelly plains, generally coming again to the side of a large Wadey, or ravine, in which there was some appearance of verdure. Many coveys of red-legged partridges flew by us. After winding along a Wadey for an hour or two, we arrived at Benioleed ajJjjJu, at two P. M., ourselves and animals much fatigued: we had made, south 50° east, twenty-five miles. We took up our quarters in the house, or rather in the stable of the house, o f the Sheikh. Here we paid our guide, who came with us from Gharian, and who was a feeble man in appearance, but a most persevering walker. H e never would sleep in our tent, but preferred lying in the open air, though the Thermometer was generally at the freezing point, with no other covering than his Barracan, not even a shirt. Tuesday, 16th February.—W e walked out to see the houses, which are built on each side of the Wadey of rough stones: none are above eight feet in height; they have no windows, but receive their light through the doors; and all look like heaps of ruins. The inhabitants are Arabs of the tribe Orfilly and are a fine handsome race o f people. The young girls are really beautiful. These poor Arabs are dreadfully oppressed by the Bashaw, who has reduced them all to a most miserable state of poverty. Those who remain in the country are in rags; the others who let their camels out to hire, and accompany traders to the interior, are somewhat better off. They were once a brave daring set o f men, who defied the government of Tripoli ; and, during the youth of the present Bashaw, fully protected him firom his father’s troops. Their services to him have, however, been but ill requited; for he persecutes them more than any others of his subjects. They have (and I believe not without deserving it) the character of being the greatest robbers and rogues in the neighbourhood of Tripoli. The Wadey produces but little corn, as the crops are all sown in the desert to the eastward; and in harvest time the owners go in bodies to bring in the grain. Much oil is made here, and the palms and olive-trees are very flourishing. We observed that of the latter there were no young trees, and learnt that the Bashaw taxed them, wherever found, as large ones,—a system, which, if pursued, will in a few years more destroy a11 the olive groves in his dominions The water here is excellent; the wells are of great depth, many being 100 feet, and others above 200 feet; in fact, the labour requisite in drawing water, makes it a scarce article. This is the-most southerly town in the Bashaw’s dominions on the road to Fezzan, to which it is nearer than the other routes. I took a drawing of the valley, which very much amazed the Arabs, and collected round me an immense crowd. We here discovered that our living amongst these people had not contributed much to our cleanliness, and that one of Pharoah’s curses was but too evidently upon us. Wednesday, 17th.—We removed from our stable to a building dignified by the name of a castle, in which the Raid resides during his too frequent visits to these parte. We had a dozen negroes turned out to make way for us, the only good room being occupied by a Chowse, who in the Raid’s name was collecting money. He was all day surrounded by poor wretches, entreating that his master would spare them, and that something might be left to assist in supporting, their families. I t was really melancholy to witness the misery which prevailed amongst them; for they were called upon to answer the exactions of three masters, none of whom would leave them even a sheep, if their extortions were not com- F 2
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