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these houses, should the inhabitants determine to resist. Few Arab attacks last long enough to end in a siege. All their sheep and poultry being confined in the house at night, the Bashaw’s army, when here, had recourse to suffocating the inmates, being unable to starve them out. The mountain top spreads from this village on to a fine plain, of a mile or two in length, which is in the highest state of cultivation. Corn and saffron fields covered with venerable olive trees yield a delightful and novel prospect, to which the wildness of the surrounding mountains contributes its share. The elevated situation o f these mountains prevents the cultivation of palms. Apple and almond trees were planted in such little ledges of the rocks as were too narrow for grain, and were at this time covered with blossoms. From a crag above the pass we had a most extensive view of the country over which we had travelled in coming from Tripoli. The Kelb Assoud, or Black Dog, lay north-east of us, about six miles on the plain below. All the remarkable places which we had traversed weré quite distinguishable, and even a part of the sandy desert behind Tripoli ; but the sea, which the natives said was often discernible, was hidden from us by the vapour arising from the sands. The young men of the Douar, or village, took great- delight in doing the honours of their.beautiful country, jumping from rock to rock like goats, and appearing a most active, hardy set of people. My very limited knowledge of the language was a source of continual regret to me ; and I believe the trip to these mountains caused me afterwards to apply with more assiduity to improve myself in it. We returned with a keen appetite to our dinner, which consisted of bazeeri, hard eggs, and mutton, and at which the Sheikh waited on us. The Chowse and our servant impudently volunteered their company, and became our messmates for the rest of thè journey. The mutton and eggs being despatched, the broth, seasoned with plenty of red pepper, was poured scalding over the bazeen, and every one fell to work with extraordinary activity. It is a point of great politeness with the Arabs to tear the meat for a stranger, as well as to squeeze up the bazeen with the sauce for him ; and as this is sometimes done with rather unsavoury fingers, hunger becomes an absolute requisite to induce a novice to touch an Arab meal. Our tent was in the evening filled by visitors, who squatted down, and were much delighted with what few wonders we had to exhibit to them. The principal of these was a loadstone, which drew a penknife out of its case, and which was consequently a subject of much speculation and whispering. The Sheikh, who really appeared a superior kind of man, was all attention and kindness; but whether from fear of the Bashaw’s Chowse, or a real wish to be o f service to us, I know not. I rather suspect the former motive, since dread of their masters, and love of presents, operate equally on the mind of Arabs. We had for our supper a kind of paste called Hatria, which resembles macaroni, and is considered a dish of honour. In the evening we were joined by a fine, bold, soldier-looking man, who was on a visit, and.who was Sheikh of Battus, (a mountain, mentioned in a former page), inhabited during a few months in the year by shepherds, and those who go there to gather in their harvest. This person and myself became great friends, and from our conversation being chiefly in pantomime, we afforded no little amusement to the rest of the party. H e invited us to go and hunt on his mountain, promising me a truly Arab present, viz. a young wolf and fox. He told us that a thousand years ago the Christians established themselves on his mountain, but were unable to remain there more than forty days; an evident proof of their inferiority to his tribe, which was commanded by e 2


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