Page 137

27f 50

60° east. At three, the camel having passed, we went on. At 4. 10. passed El Gara on the right. From hence Hamera bore north 55° east. We travelled all this day, with the exception of the villages, over a gravelly desert. On the plain we visited a well which is haunted by Iblis, or the devil; for the Arabs cannot conceive that the echo which proceeds from it can arise from any other cause. A t five we arrived at Hamera. I found myself greatly exhausted in consequence of the pain in my liver, and the debility occasioned by the mercury I had taken. The Kaid promised me much comfort here, as we were to have the Sultan’s own house ; ■ but we waited so long in the midst of the village, before we could find any one to get it ready, that I was obliged to produce my Teskera, which soon set the people in motion, and converted a set of impudent lazy Arabs into the most submissive people in the world, and every one of them seemed equally anxious to do us honour. We soon found the house, which was a miserable ruin, having only two roofed rooms. The one destined for our reception was occupied by five or six half naked Arab women, and a small floek of sheep; but they all made way for us, and we took possession of it.D ec. 19th. I was so ill that I remained in bed, and was stared at by the whole village. December 20th. Thermometer 3° 30'. This place is now nearly unwalled by time, and is completely wretched ; it stands on the desert, but is surrounded by a few straggling palms, and gardens. The ground near the walls is covered with bushes of Agool (or thorn 6f the desert), which, at a little distance, has a pleasing green effect, and was then quite a novelty to us/ The Sheikh brought his two wives to me for advice': the first, who had a head-ache and sore eyes, I was able to do something for; but as for the second, her case was hopeless; for, according to her husband’s and her own account, she had been three years with child. Such mistakes are frequent here, as many women take this method of deceiving their husbands, to avoid being divorced for sterility. The lady left the house very much irritated at my giving her no remedy for her complaint. A t 11. 20. we started, and I observed the following bearings from Hamera. El Bedere, east by north two miles. (It is from this place that the people of the neighbouring districts supply themselves with salt, as i t is here free from earth, and of a beautiful whiteness.) Omeleraneb, west-southwest two miles. This is the town of Sheikh Barood, of the Boo- wadie Arabs; and from this place Teweewa is south-west two or three miles. As usual, the desert is to the left, and high sand hills to the right. The -first part of our road was over a barren plain, and we then, for an hour and a half, travelled over a plain of salt, broken up in large slabs by the heat of the sun, and having the appearance of a brown disturbed sea. We found the footing very difficult for ourselves and animals. At 1. 40. arrived at the village of Omesogueen. Stopped here for a short time, and sent the camels on. I consider this place seven miles and a half east 8° north of Hamera. Low table-topped hills bound the view to the northward. The plains which occurred at intervals between the sand hills, wCre covered by brittle stones,, resembling pieces of yellowish earthen ware, and ringing when struck by iron, At 2. 15. we set off, and proceeded east 17? north; met three more Augela prisoners, and eight camels laden with merchandize, which they had brought from Egypt, and which, with themselves, were seized on their entering Zuela. A t four we passed a flat hill on the left, running east and west for many miles, called Mengar; some talhh trees are scattered on the plain at its foot, which afford a lasting joke against the people of Zuela. A man coming from thence, in great dread of meeting the Waled Suliman, a band e e 2


27f 50
To see the actual publication please follow the link above