CHAPTER V. Departure for Tegerry, through Zuela and Gatrone—Arrival at Zaizow—Pass on to Traghan—Visit Gardens and Springs—Arrival at Zaitoon and Touelar—Pass Villages of Maghwa and Taleb—Arrival at Hamera—Illness—Leave Hamera— Bearings of its neighbouring Villages—Large Salt Plain—Arrival at Zuela—Description of Inhabitants—Author’s Illness—Ancient Buildings—Hospitality of the Shreefs—Leave the Town—Arrival at Terboo—Its Wretchedness—Curious Story of Maraboot—Arrival at Mejdool—-Journey across the Desert, and Arrival at Gatrone—Feast of Milood—Costume, Character, and general Description of the Tibboo—Description o f Gatrone—Accounts of Tibesty and Waday, from a Tibboo Trader—Tibboo Language—Leave Gatrone in order to meet the Grazzie—El Bakkhi—Tibboo Manner o f making Ta r—Arrival at Tegerry. O n the 9th of December we began our preparations, and by the 13 th, had succeeded in nailing and lashing up all our effects, which we lodged in the Koudi or sitting-room of oldHadje Mahmoud, who was to take charge o f them. I bought a very, fine brown Maherry seven feet six inches in height, and able to carry 5, cwt., of a little one-eyed boy, of about 12 years, of age, who drove a bargain harder than any man I ever saw. My health was very bad, and I suffered severe pain from diseased liver and enlarged spleen; but having considered that it would be necessary for me, before I returned to Tripoli, to ascertain the situation o f other parts of the kingdom of Fezzan beyond Morzouk, I determined, notwithstanding my extreme weakness, to visit the southern and eastern provinces, proceeding in the first place to Zuela *Ujr> in the east, and from thence passing the desert to Gatrone 3 and Tegerry in the south. I persuaded Belford, who always entered into my views, to try what change of air would do for him as well as for myself, and he agreed to accompany me, although we more resembled two men going to the grave, than fit persons to travel over strange countries. Yussuf ben el Hadge Khaleel kindly lent us his little boy, Barea, who was to act as our servant, and to lead our camel. On the 14th we set out, having received a Teskera from the Sultan, on all the villages through which we might pass, so as that ourselves and animals might be fed. I also had an order for the Kaid of Zaizow } and the brother of the Kaid of Traghan to accompany us : but it was not until 1 . 50. P.M. that we were able to get away. We were weak and helpless; and the Arabs, according to custom, gave us so much trouble, by their officiousness, that the poor camel and our horses were loaded and unloaded a dozen times at least. A t 2. 50. we passed a small nest of huts on our left, named Mangelly having another village to the south of it, about one mile distant, called Ghrowat . A t 4. after crossing a sandy plain, we came to a little village in the gardens of Hadge Hajeel where we found our friend, Mohammed, measuring and burying the Sultan’s dates. The heap he was employed on was about twelve feet in height, and thirty in length, and had all been collected in the immediate neighbourhood. Mohammed gladly left his work; and having ordered some Lackbi to be brought, and a fowl or two to be seized upon, carried us to the hut he was living in. We proceeded this. day;H. and by S, ; about seven miles.—Mohammed made us welcome in the .evening, and brought a fifer and two bagpipers to stun us, while the women of the village, to do us honour, beat tin-pots, singing, and dancing before us. D D 2
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